My vert grip emag

[Joni]

Maybe your trigger is too heavy? I have never seen a y/i-frame trigger myself so I don't know.

[kylemc]

could you post pics of the other side of the frame? so i can see how your mini morlock sits

[Joni]

It actually sits inside the lcd window, with velcro.

[Joni]

I did som FA testing today. 17 cps worked great, at 18 it started spluttering. 2-3 shots at 18 was fine, but after that it started shortstroking. This was with 8.5-8.6V left in the battery, so with a better battery it would probably be faster. I had 10 ms dwell.

Some more pics and videos coming up soon.

[trains are bad]

are you getting any bolt or sear wear at 10ms dwell? I was. It wasn't bad but I could tell it was rubbing. I increased my dwell to 20 and didn't notice any speed difference. I haven't done further testing since then. You should use a 9.6v rechargeable, those things are gnar.

[Joni]

TRB
No wear on the bolt, some wear on the sear, but that was there before I did this mod. I'm sure using 20 ms dwell won't kill speed, but it will probably kill my batterytime. I beleive the spydermags use about 10 dwell, without ill effect. But since your setup doesn't use much batterys anywat, there is nothing wrong with keeping it at 20. Gonna order some maha powerex in a moment =)

I have finished the install now. Installed a trigger return spring. I had some trouble with bounce before, but now I could reduce debounce, and that made it a bit faster. Also filed in the frame to fit the battery better, and got the wires under control. Enough talking, some pics:



Close up of the trigger. The trigger stop screw is stock on the logic vert, the upper screw I installed to push the switch. FYI, the trigger return spring is installed in the rail, and pushes on that screw.



And here is where the board sits:



Vids:
Shooting paint. Yes it's chopping. 6 months old paint that's been sitting in the open,a lvl10 set for reballs and old batteries in the egg = blender. Yeah, I know, no goggles, but I only had one pair at home, and I though it would be better that the guy filming uses them.

http://www.jayloo.com/videos/show_vid/2485.html

Dryfiring:

http://www.jayloo.com/videos/show_vid/2482.html

No bounce what so ever:

http://www.jayloo.com/videos/show_vid/2484.html

If anybody would be kind enough to do some sound analysis, I would be greatful.

[warbeak2099]

OMG that's amazing. God I wish I knew how to do stuff like that. I could probably solder and tune the elctronics and everything, but the milling and mounting is what I would be lost with. I wish someone would offer custom work like this, for all of us who are mechanically stupid lol. How much did it cost you? If it's cheaper than a DevilMag then I am going to find me someone who's got the tools and knowledge!

[trains are bad]

Yes it's chopping. 6 months old paint that's been sitting in the open,a lvl10 set for reballs and old batteries in the egg = blender.

dude, I know you have eyes somewhere around there, that came with your board. You know you want to install them. Do it.

[the electrician]

lookin' pretty tidy!

so did you solder everything together? that can make it a pain to fine tune and work on sometimes. especially if you want to keep the wires short and tidy.
I should have mentioned it earlier, but I use inline wire connectors between my solenoids and circuit boards. that way you can just disconnect it from everything else. it can be used on the switch wires too if need be to make assembly easier.

I buy the Hirose DF3 series connectors. the morlock board uses a Hirose DF11 series connector. which is the same thing as the DF3, only double stacked.
the DF3 inline plug, connector and pre-crimped wires can be purchased at digikey. then just solder the wires inline and heat shrink them.

it just makes it easier to work on. less cances of damaging a solder joint if you don't have to fight it.

I've been trying to find small, 2 conductor, DF11 compatible connectors that can just plug into the morlock direct for the switch, solenoid, and battery, then just use a 4 conductor DF11 for the eyes. I haven't got around to it yet.


what brand of Capacitor are you using Joni? NTE seems to make the smallest size per capacity. it would be wise to run a 16V cap instead of a 10v. then you could charge up your powerex batteries past 10 volts and not worry about damaging the cap. you would definitely get more power out of the solenoid that way.

as long as you get a charger that won't take the 9.6v battery past 10 volts, the cap will be fine as is though. good NiMh rechargeables are the way to go for these applications.

[Joni]

I actually don't know the brand of the cap. I ordered it from the same place as the noid, and I said I wanted a hyperframe cap, since I didn't know what they used. This is what I got. I don't know if there is a small enough 16V cap available. I used one for testing, but it's way to big to fit in the frame.

Everything is soldered together. Wish I had known that earlier. But I don't think it will be a large problem, everything is easyli accecible anyway.

About the eyes, I'm gonna get there at some point, but it's gonna have to wait. I have spent way to much time on this allready, time to go play a little. It's gonna be reballs anyway, so it doesn't really matter

warbeak, I know nothing about milling. I just made the drawings and gave it to a friend who could do it. I think I spent about 150$ on this mod, not too bad huh

[the electrician]

well if it comes to it, just give me the dimensions on the cap you're using and I'll cross reference it for ya.

it looks good and sounds like it's runnin' pretty good now.

hell, looks good for a e-mag, but for a budget e-mag, it looks great!

[MindJob]

Guys, GREAT work.

I would love to know the list of parts and where to get them. I gotta try this myself.

[warbeak2099]

Woot, I found a friend who owns and is very knowledgeable about metal working machinery/tools. He said he'd help me with carving out the frame and all that. Now would the internals from a spyder esp style frame work (noid, cap, battery harness)? I was thinking of just buying a cracked sprint frame from someone and gutting it. Probably would cost around $20-30.

Thanks,
Pete

[Joni]

I'm pretty sure that ESP frame internals would do the trick. The spydermags seems to work fine. You probably would have to get a T-board or similar to get the speed. I figured out afterwards that that would have probably been a cheaper route to take.

[warbeak2099]

Yea that's most likely what I'll do. Buy a cheap cracked sprint frame for around $30 and see if my friend and I can make the electronics work inside my logic frame (if not then hey, I have a lighter frame!). Then when I have the extra cash, tboard it! With eyes and a 25g switch of course.