so this isnt pnumatic i take it, so waht are the pros and cons compared to a regular mag, pnuematic, and E?
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embargo backwards = o grab me
"Guns dont kill people, husbands that come home early do." -Larry The Cable Guy
Dragun Drallion, nexus kit, tickler, e2, pysco 5" drop w/ on off, macroline, A+ bolt and back block, Oydessy 3 barrel kit, armson stealth, 15* ASA, Kapp pump arm, Black Magic, warp feed w/ 12v upgrade, halo b w/ vic&rip, 91/4500 bulldog
Tippmann 98C ebolt, lp kit, m-16 kit, palmer stabilizer -
No this is not pneumatic. It's a sear tripping noid.
I bought the cap from the same source as the noid, don't know where it came from originallyComment
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Where did you buy cap and noid? I already have the Morlock.Originally posted by JoniComment
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I have been working on my own electro conversion same basic design as your but i am building my own board. I am currently running into some problems with solenoid placement and looking for advice.
When i charge the solenoid ( just connecting to a 9 volt power supply for initial testing) first the solenoid is not snapping close. This i assume is because i do not have the capacitor wired in and it is not getting enough power. Next i use my finger to help it along and push it to close it and activate the valve. Nothing happens. Correct me if i am wrong but this means i need to move it forward so that it can complete the cycle or move it up in the frame so the actually movement of the sear is less although the force will increase.
Could you provide some dimensions for me to compare to.
Thickness from the top of the frame to the where the top of your cut for the solenoid is.
Distance from bottom of sear to where solenoid is engaging.Comment
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Do you have a hyperframe noid? When I connected the noid directly to a battery (no cap), it snapped close. Hard enough to make a loud "tock" if it was upside down on the table.
I'm at work an don't have the dimensions here. I'll see what I can do when I get home. I can tell you that it actuates the sear at about the same place as the trigger clevis is placed, maybe a little higher.
Good luckComment
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Yes i believe i have a hyperframe noid, I purchased it from GA Devil along with a 10,000 uf capacitor. When i hook the noid up with out the cap it does slam shut making the tick you described. My noid seems to be placed in a similar position close or a little above where the trigger linkage would be. I am having some trouble wiring the capacitor in to provide the extra bit of umph to the noid. When the capacitor is in series with the noid it does not seem to be charging when the gun is waiting for a trigger pull. Any info would be greatly helpful.Comment
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The cap shouldn't be in series with the noid! It should be in paralell. Make sure that you get the bias of the cap correct. It should have a row of - signs, where you should connect the negative from the battery.Comment
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I have another question for you Joni
I have the internals of the frame up and running but how did you get the grips back on. I assume you removed some of the rubber so that they didnt interfere with the solenoid plunger or is there some other trick that you could fill me in on.Comment
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You got it right. Remove some of the rubber. Just be careful not to remove to much, it has to be rather thin at some places. Also make sure that the plunger can move freely when the grips are on.Comment
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Thanks, I spent a couple ours removing a little at a time with a gouge. Went through the first layer of rubber and down through the plastic core and stoped at the second layer of rubber. Now i just have to test to see if the plunger has plenty of clearance and build my final mounting bracket.Comment
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I'm at the same stage. I need to finish my mount and carve away my grips. Just have to drill holes in the mount for some set screws to hold the noid. I'm thinking 4 instead of just 2. All in all I feel pretty optomistic. The only thing is all the machinery and equipment is at my friend's house. He owns it all, so I can't just finish the next part of the project whenever I want. I have to wait till he can have me over. So frusterating because we're so close!!!Comment
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I know what you mean i started this project while in college and had accses to their machine shop, I can still use it but it is an hour and half away and im working full time now. On my original mount that i built real quick for set up and making sure the noid fired the gun i had 3 set screws but i think im going to go down to two. After that i still have to rebuild my board to fit in the frame and finish programing.Comment
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What kind of noid are you using? I'm using one from a spyder esp frame. It is bigger than the centerflag/mako/booh-yaah noids I think and I had to grind down the pin to make it fit. I hope this doesn't affect anything lol.Comment
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Im using the centerflag noid, fitting it in the frame properly took some trial and error as far as how high up in the frame it had to sit but it eventually got there. I fired it at 15 cps but have not been able to achieve higher fire rates. Im not sure if it is a hardware issue or my program, but the program cycled the noid outside the gun at 20cps under a lot smaller load. More testing to be doneComment
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Eureka! I've done it! It works!!! Woohoooooooooooooooo! Ok, now I need to:
Lenghten and re-solder the wires to the noid, microswitch, and on/off switch.
Dremel channels inside the frame for the wires from the on/off and micro switch so the noid is slamming on them.
Carve out the sides of the grips for the noid.
Drill the back of the frame for the on/off.
Buy Tboard, Tswitch, Ramping Chip, BB Eyes.
Have local shop drill eye holes and install eyes.
Woot.Comment
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