** Official Level 10 Problems Thread **

[athomas]

There is only one top o-ring on the on-off for the ULE as far as I am aware, and it is there. The Regulator valve pin o-ring is the one i'm talking about moving and that AGD told me to move from the "regulator seat Holder" to the groove on the regulator itself, which does fix it till i degas the marker and regas it.

You mentioned it was happening with the RT on-off as well, which is why I went that route. Since the problem is the same with both on-off assemblies, I suspect they are not the problem.

It definately appears to be a regulator valve pin oring problem. Why is it not being held in place. Are both orings at that end of the assembly in place? Is the reg seat holder installed in the correct orientation. Make sure there is no dirt or debris in any of the orings, including the front two orings and spacer on the front of the valve pin assembly.

[rexydog]

The on-off pin is supposed to stop the front chamber from filling with air as long as the trigger is held. If air is filling the chamber to allow the bolt to recycle, then there is only two places it can enter. The first is past the on-off top orings. The second is past the regulator valve pin oring. If air blows past either of these orings, the bolt could continually cycle, even with the trigger held.

Check that both on-off top orings are in place. Check that the regulator valve pin oring is in place.

There is only one top o-ring on the on-off for the ULE as far as I am aware, and it is there. The Regulator valve pin o-ring is the one i'm talking about moving and that AGD told me to move from the "regulator seat Holder" to the groove on the regulator itself, which does fix it till i degas the marker and regas it.

[athomas]

It never stops firing after pulling the trigger until released, and ocassionaly it vents air. It will either vent air or just become full auto, untill i reseat the oring back into the regulator.

The on-off pin is supposed to stop the front chamber from filling with air as long as the trigger is held. If air is filling the chamber to allow the bolt to recycle, then there is only two places it can enter. The first is past the on-off top orings. The second is past the regulator valve pin oring. If air blows past either of these orings, the bolt could continually cycle, even with the trigger held.

Check that both on-off top orings are in place. Check that the regulator valve pin oring is in place.

[rexydog]

No, this is not normal. The regulator seat oring prevents the bottle pressure from getting into the the chamber. If this oring isn't working properly, you will probably experience air venting out the back due to overpressure in the chamber.

Does the mag stop firing when holding the trigger after a shot? Make sure you have the rail bushing installed when you put the mag back together.

It never stops firing after pulling the trigger until released, and ocassionaly it vents air. It will either vent air or just become full auto, untill i reseat the oring back into the regulator.

[athomas]

.... Went out to use it the next weekend and agian full auto, so i moved the oring back to the regulator and it worked. It appeared that if i move the o-ring back to the regulator i can use the gun just fine but as soon as i ungas the marker i have to move that o-ring agian... that isn't normal right? ..

No, this is not normal. The regulator seat oring prevents the bottle pressure from getting into the the chamber. If this oring isn't working properly, you will probably experience air venting out the back due to overpressure in the chamber.

Does the mag stop firing when holding the trigger after a shot? Make sure you have the rail bushing installed when you put the mag back together.

[rexydog]

Tac-one fullauto issue

Ok i'm new to all AGD guns, but i bought a tac-one new from AGD. When i got it it worked fine the first time i used it with the RT in it, so I installed the ULE kit after watching some online videos of how to do it. After that the gun would only do full auto no matter how many shims I installed on the ULE. So i put the RT back in and still always full auto. I called AGD and the man i spoke with was very helpful, and after about 30mins of differnt things he had me unscrew the regulator from the tube and move the Regulator seat o-ring from the seat to the grove in the regulator. I put the gun back together and it all worked great. Went out to use it the next weekend and agian full auto, so i moved the oring back to the regulator and it worked. It appeared that if i move the o-ring back to the regulator i can use the gun just fine but as soon as i ungas the marker i have to move that o-ring agian... that isn't normal right? I am gonna call AGD this week if i can't get it fixed this weekend. Thanks for any help guys.

[athomas]

Check for dots on the carriers as well as rings. Each ring represents a 1. Each dot represents a 0.5. So, a carrier without a anything is a size zero. A carrier with a single ring is size 1. A carrier with a single ring and a dot is a size 1.5.

If you have measured the id of the carrier, I would guess that the 0.304 is size 0, without any marks on it. 0.305 probably has a single dot and is size 0.5. 0.306 is probably a single ring and is size 1.0. 0.307 probably has a single ring and a dot and is size 1.5.

[pepper]

[athomas]

using 1.5 carrier and 2 shims and the bolt won't reset automatically after a simulated chop with my battle swab. suggestions??????

Always use the largest carrier that doesn't leak. When checking carrier sizes, don't use any shims. A shim leak can sometimes appear like a carrier leak and can cause you to use a carrier that is too tight.

Adding shims shortens the distance that the bolt needs to travel before it can vent air and reset. If your setup is venting when it encounters a blockage, then you don't need any more shims. Only use extra shims if the bolt moves, then stops on a blockage, doesn't vent, but won't reset.

[secretweaponevan]

using 1.5 carrier and 2 shims and the bolt won't reset automatically after a simulated chop with my battle swab. suggestions??????

Add oil.
Use largest carrier that doesn't leak.
Add oil.
Add shims until it resets reliably after it encounters a jam.

[stiffmeister]

bolt won't reset after chop

using 1.5 carrier and 2 shims and the bolt won't reset automatically after a simulated chop with my battle swab. suggestions??????

[athomas]

Ok, I am new to the lvl10, read a lot of the help thread, but didn't find anything.

When I installed his bolt I made sure it was the proper sized carrier, and installed in the right order, no shims, red spring, and the pressure is cranked up, but it is still only moving about half way forward, chuffing and then returning back to the neutreal position. I have no idea what is happening, so if anyone has any ideas that would eb great.

It sounds like you need more pressure. Have you tried increasing the velocity setting even more? Perhaps the bolt is fetching up on something such as a ball detent or a barrel that is not centered. What type of body are you using?

Don't use any shims. Shims only shorten the distance that the bolt needs to move before it can vent air. You are already getting a chuff, so shims won't help.

The fact that it is returning to the reset position would indicate that your carrier is sized correctly.

[lidocaine]

raven add shims one at a time until it shoots consistently.

[ravenlord]

Ok, I am new to the lvl10, read a lot of the help thread, but didn't find anything.

When I installed his bolt I made sure it was the proper sized carrier, and installed in the right order, no shims, red spring, and the pressure is cranked up, but it is still only moving about half way forward, chuffing and then returning back to the neutreal position. I have no idea what is happening, so if anyone has any ideas that would eb great.

[secretweaponevan]

Im glad it wasnt a snake, thanks man.

LOL!
You're welcome.