** Official Level 10 Problems Thread **

[ezcreation]

The carrier does fit tightly into the powertube. Your leaking sounds like it might be sear related. If your sear is worn, the bolt will sit too far forward. The vent hole will always be past the carrier oring. Make sure you have the rail bushing as well. This could also lead to continuous leaking.

What do you mean by rail bushing?

I have a continuous leak, I have checked my sear and it works fine, changed all oring and such. Have done the carrier/oil/shims drill but still leaking.

Have not measured the bolt but pretty sure it is the correct size since I have tried several.

[Looper]

Think I found my answer at post 176 in this thread...

DarkPhoenix- If you're handy with tools and Loctite, take off the foamie, take a drift pin and tap out the bolt pin from the hole exposed when you take off the foamie. This will remove the bolt pin so you can put a dab of RED Loctite on it and press fit it back in. Be sure to fully clean off any dirt from the tip of the pin surface that is press fitted into the bolt with rubbing alochol. Use a q-tip to wipe off any Loctite that comes out from pressing it in. I suggest using a flat faced hammer on the end of the bolt pin with short, but firm taps. The end of the bolt pin that you'll be hitting with the hammer doesn't contact anything so it's not an issue to hit it with a hammer, so long as you tap it in straight and don't slip. Use calipers to measure from the tip of the bolt to the tip of the pin. It should go in to 2.010".

[Looper]

The carrier does fit tightly into the powertube. Your leaking sounds like it might be sear related. If your sear is worn, the bolt will sit too far forward. The vent hole will always be past the carrier oring. Make sure you have the rail bushing as well. This could also lead to continuous leaking.

I'm having this exact same issue with one LX bolt but not another... I have tried all the standard stuff and even tried removing the bolt and holding the trigger while airing it up. No leak, reassemble with bolt and SNAP, the leak is back. Then I looked at the non function bolt and the working one and WOW the stem is longer...

Here is a photo for the record...


I'm guessing I've got my self an early LX Bolt here because of the seam at the front of the bolt. The strange thing is it was working fine until the other day while playing in freezing weather the thing just started leaking and would not stop. I have swapped bolts off another valve and leak goes away so that would rule out the sear... and now that I look at the bypass hole in the shaft it is back further than the working LX bolt... but the foamy looks to be in the right place up front...

Approximate distance to bypass hole from back edge of bolt
.2020 Leaky Lx
.3415 Working LX

Looks like I have a failed Level X Bolt
Any suggestions?

[athomas]

I have a classic automag with a level 10 bolt that leaks no matter what I do. Leak stops when trigger is held down. I've changed all o-rings, used plenty of lube, removed all shims, and installed the smallest carrier with little effect. The leak persists, ranging from moderate to floodgate. What the hell is wrong with this thing?

The level 10 carriers (all of them) fit very tightly into the power tube and must be pushed down to the bottom with considerable force (even when soaking in lube), as if it's hanging up on the powertube's threading. However, the carrier o-rings show no visible signs of damage when removed, but who knows.

Any tips?

The carrier does fit tightly into the powertube. Your leaking sounds like it might be sear related. If your sear is worn, the bolt will sit too far forward. The vent hole will always be past the carrier oring. Make sure you have the rail bushing as well. This could also lead to continuous leaking.

[secretweaponevan]

I have a classic automag with a level 10 bolt that leaks no matter what I do. Leak stops when trigger is held down. I've changed all o-rings, used plenty of lube, removed all shims, and installed the smallest carrier with little effect. The leak persists, ranging from moderate to floodgate. What the hell is wrong with this thing?

The level 10 carriers (all of them) fit very tightly into the power tube and must be pushed down to the bottom with considerable force (even when soaking in lube), as if it's hanging up on the powertube's threading. However, the carrier o-rings show no visible signs of damage when removed, but who knows.

Any tips?

A fresh LVL 10 carrier o-ring will leak until broken in.
Do this:

Remove all LVL 10 shims.
Pick 1 carrier o-ring and stick with it.
Use oil.
Use #2 carrier (2 lines, no dots, or largest one you have).
Shoot 1000 shots to break in o-ring.
Move broken-in o-ring to largest carrier that doesn't leak.
Use red spring for 285 fps. Use longer spring for higher velocity or to be more gentle (fragile paint), shorter spring for lower velocity or to be less gentle (thicker shell).
If bolt sticks after encountering a jam, add a shim.

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[ghost flanker]

Leaking no matter what!

I have a classic automag with a level 10 bolt that leaks no matter what I do. Leak stops when trigger is held down. I've changed all o-rings, used plenty of lube, removed all shims, and installed the smallest carrier with little effect. The leak persists, ranging from moderate to floodgate. What the hell is wrong with this thing?

The level 10 carriers (all of them) fit very tightly into the power tube and must be pushed down to the bottom with considerable force (even when soaking in lube), as if it's hanging up on the powertube's threading. However, the carrier o-rings show no visible signs of damage when removed, but who knows.

Any tips?

[athomas]

dont know why cause it worked fine with a lvl 7 bolt. Pin length remained the same between the lvl 10 and lvl 7 bolt. Only differences is the gun gives me issues while the lvl 10 bolt.

Your problem could be an accumulation of problems. Make sure the pin is the short emag pin. You may also be getting minor bolt stick. Everything is probably working ok, except it is slowed down. A tiny bit of bolt stick would shorten the amount of time the valve has to recharge. Combine that with a longer on-off pin and you shorten the time even more. Under normal firing conditions it wouldn't be notice, but under rapid bursts the valve would starve for air.

Check your pin length. It is probably ok if you ordered an emag pin with your assembly. I'd retune your level 10 setup and try to use the next larger carrier. Remove all shims when testing to make sure you don't get any leaking that is shim related rather than carrier related.

[tarthal]

dont know why cause it worked fine with a lvl 7 bolt. Pin length remained the same between the lvl 10 and lvl 7 bolt. Only differences is the gun gives me issues while the lvl 10 bolt.

[athomas]

ye replaced the on/off and used the pin that came with it. When I ordered it from Tuna. Also my bottle worked with a lvl 7 bolt.

If it was a standard pin, then that's your problem. Use the original one from the emag.

[tarthal]

ye replaced the on/off and used the pin that came with it. When I ordered it from Tuna. Also my bottle worked with a lvl 7 bolt.

[athomas]

So Last week i was having issues with a lvl 7 bolt chuffing at high rates of fire in Elec mode. It stoped after puting about a case of paint thru it. Was waiting for everything to be in perfect working order before I put in the lvl 10 bolt on the Emag. I replaced every O-ring and replaced the ON/off and the Regulator Valve Pin Assembly. So thats a little history on what I have done trying to fix that issue. But now its working great.

So I installed the lvl 10 according to the detailed instructions on this website. In mech mode it fires fine. No leaking no chuffing. When I put in a something infront of the bolt it fires and resets fine. But in Elec mode at high rates of fires its pretty much chuff almost every shot if not every other shot. O and I turned the velocity all the way up. And it never leaked out the back like it said it would. I tried both of the longer springs and the gun would not cycle. But with my original short spring and the short spring with the lvl 10 bolt it would cycle both with the same issue with chuffing.So any Ideas?

You mentioned replacing the on-off. Did you replace the pin? If so, did you install the correct 0.712" pin? The other causes of chuffing at high rates of fire is the bottle regulator's inability to keep up.

[tarthal]

So Last week i was having issues with a lvl 7 bolt chuffing at high rates of fire in Elec mode. It stoped after puting about a case of paint thru it. Was waiting for everything to be in perfect working order before I put in the lvl 10 bolt on the Emag. I replaced every O-ring and replaced the ON/off and the Regulator Valve Pin Assembly. So thats a little history on what I have done trying to fix that issue. But now its working great.

So I installed the lvl 10 according to the detailed instructions on this website. In mech mode it fires fine. No leaking no chuffing. When I put in a something infront of the bolt it fires and resets fine. But in Elec mode at high rates of fires its pretty much chuff almost every shot if not every other shot. O and I turned the velocity all the way up. And it never leaked out the back like it said it would. I tried both of the longer springs and the gun would not cycle. But with my original short spring and the short spring with the lvl 10 bolt it would cycle both with the same issue with chuffing.So any Ideas?

[athomas]

a loader malfunction. My Halo seemed to be giving an awful lot of 'jamming' warnings via the LED that was lit like a christmas tree. I'm attributing it to the loss of the foamie mostly, however...I was having to push the balls with my finger thru the power feed port.

No, the loss of foamy won't cause that problem. The balls still feed properly without the foamy. Since you have a level 7 powerfeed body, it is possible that you have one of the early non-parabolic feed plugs. Some of those caused feed issues. A Halo may put too much pressure on the flat "nonparabolic" section of the plug causing the balls to jam in the corner. Airgun Designs replaced all those plugs years ago but there are quite few older guns out there with that older style plug, mine included, although I had never used a halo on that body so I never had any issues.

[CAT/J]

...ya I'm also considering

a loader malfunction. My Halo seemed to be giving an awful lot of 'jamming' warnings via the LED that was lit like a christmas tree. I'm attributing it to the loss of the foamie mostly, however...I was having to push the balls with my finger thru the power feed port.

[athomas]

Thanks a bunch...now I gotta find some foamies...And to be honest, with the foamie gone, it was allowing the balls to roll back(into the bolt face somewhat), causing constant feeding issues.

That roll back is the same as every other bolt on the market that has the center drilled out. If you are having feed issues, it could be a problem elsewhere. If the balls roll back, it just means the next ball sits a bit lower into the breach. The bolt tip will make slight contact, but the starting velocity and impact force of the level 10 bolt won't hurt it. If you are getting "chuffs", then it is probably a level ten setup issue.