** Official Level 10 Problems Thread **

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  • crazyjoe12
    Guest replied
    could a damaged backing washer cause leaks? i have the 0 carrier in my rt valve with lvl 10 and it works without leaking but every few shots it will start leaking a little, ive tried all the different size carriers and all the other ones will leak all the time the 0 just a little sometimes. any help would be great, i have been trying to figure this out for weeks now i just dont know what the problem is ugh.

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  • athomas
    replied
    Originally posted by Danielkong916
    Ok so here is my possible issue. It may just be how my gun is meant to run but it seems a bit unusual based on what everyone online has voice/the instruction stuff. I have a Minimag body w/ a classic valve. I followed the in depth instructions after messing around without much progress for about an hour and they started from scratch... and what do you know... it worked... sort of. The best I have gotten it to work so far is between 0-1 Shims and the shortest(I believe the equivalent of the stock spring) Even with the shortest spring it seems like I have to shoot it what seems a bit hot(I don't have a chrono @ my house but I know it was chronoed w/ the stock spring last time I used it and it was set @ 290. In order to get it to fire properly w/ 1 shim and the stock spring I had to turn it up about and 1/8-1/4 turn to get it shooting solid. Now when I try to get work w/ the middle spring and 1 shim I end up needing to turn the pressure up until it starts to venting down the barrel and I can get it to shoot. My thought was that I need to trim my middle spring to about 1/2 way between the stock one and what it is @ now. If this could be a shim/carrier issue that I am overlooking please let me know. Thanks
    -Dan
    Bolt springs do not affect it venting down the barrel. If it is venting down the barrel, you have either a carrier that is too loose or too many shims installed. If it bolt sticks and vents, then your carrier is too tight.

    The first thing you need to do when tuning your level 10 bolt system is to remove all the powertube shims. That way you won't get any false leaks. The shims do not affect the operation of the mag. Shims only affect how far the bolt needs to move in order to vent air and reset if the marker attempts to fire but can't due to a breach blockage. If the marker fires and then bolt stick occurs, or if the gun missfires but the bolt vents air, then shims will not help. You need to install the largest carrier that does not allow air to leak out the front. Always use the same white carrier oring when changing carrier sizes. The carriers are used to tighten the inner diameter of the white oring which is why you always need to use the same oring.

    Bolt springs affect the operating range of the marker. The stock bolt spring allows the lowest velocity operation. The red spring is the next stiffest spring and requires higher chamber pressure to push the bolt, which is why it requires a higher velocity setting than the stock spring. The long grey spring is the stiffest. The bolt spring will not cause leaking but may not allow the marker to cycle within your desired velocity range. Ideally, your velocity setting should be about 20 fps above the lowest velocity setting that the marker will cycle at. This will allow a very consistent operation with very good anti-chop. Example; If the marker starts to cycle at 240 fps, then you should probably go to the next stiffer spring. If the marker does not start to cycle until 290 fps, then you should go to the next lighter spring.

    The powertube opening of the level 10 system is a bit smaller than that of the level 7 system. That means you will have to turn the velocity setting up a bit to maintain the same velocity even using the stock spring.

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  • Danielkong916
    replied
    Ok so here is my possible issue. It may just be how my gun is meant to run but it seems a bit unusual based on what everyone online has voice/the instruction stuff. I have a Minimag body w/ a classic valve. I followed the in depth instructions after messing around without much progress for about an hour and they started from scratch... and what do you know... it worked... sort of. The best I have gotten it to work so far is between 0-1 Shims and the shortest(I believe the equivalent of the stock spring) Even with the shortest spring it seems like I have to shoot it what seems a bit hot(I don't have a chrono @ my house but I know it was chronoed w/ the stock spring last time I used it and it was set @ 290. In order to get it to fire properly w/ 1 shim and the stock spring I had to turn it up about and 1/8-1/4 turn to get it shooting solid. Now when I try to get work w/ the middle spring and 1 shim I end up needing to turn the pressure up until it starts to venting down the barrel and I can get it to shoot. My thought was that I need to trim my middle spring to about 1/2 way between the stock one and what it is @ now. If this could be a shim/carrier issue that I am overlooking please let me know. Thanks
    -Dan

    Leave a comment:


  • athomas
    replied
    Originally posted by Crazy685
    Where can I buy a new oring for the powertube on a level 10? I recently just bought a RT valve with a level 10 installed and it leaks down the barrel. The guy I bought it from did say that it sat for a while, so it probably needs to be oiled and have the ring replaced.
    If there is any where on the sear of the gun you are installing the valve in, the bolt probably sits farther forward. This could cause leaking if there are shims installed and it allows the vent hole to be exposed.

    It probably just needs to be tuned. If the valve was tuned prior to you buying it, then it probably just sits in a different position from the setup it was tuned in. Remove all the shims from the powertube. If it still leaks, then tune it by using a smaller carrier size with the same white carrier oring.

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  • Crazy685
    replied
    Where can I buy a new oring for the powertube on a level 10? I recently just bought a RT valve with a level 10 installed and it leaks down the barrel. The guy I bought it from did say that it sat for a while, so it probably needs to be oiled and have the ring replaced.

    Leave a comment:


  • Deen
    replied
    Originally posted by Looper
    Replace it when you no longer see it there... Clean well, use super glue... or do like alot do and don't bother to replace it.

    Thank you much. I was having a heck of a time trying to get my mag to shoot but through reading the postes to this thread and others on AO I got it shooting. I thought the foam had something to do with it but then realized it doesn't but that info will be helpful when it falls off. Otherwise I would have tried to rip it off or some other stupid idea.

    Leave a comment:


  • Looper
    replied
    Originally posted by Deen
    When and how do I replace the black foam thing (sorry do not know the techniqual term)? Also for what reason would I replace it?
    Replace it when you no longer see it there... Clean well, use super glue... or do like alot do and don't bother to replace it.

    Leave a comment:


  • Deen
    replied
    Help please

    When and how do I replace the black foam thing (sorry do not know the techniqual term)? Also for what reason would I replace it?

    Leave a comment:


  • athomas
    replied
    Originally posted by pinkanese
    Sorry I am switching topics here, but would THIS also work, I only ask because it is not marked for high pressure as the other one is.
    Yes. This is the same high pressure assembly. All new assemblies are high pressure. Tunaman has the latest parts available for sale.

    Leave a comment:


  • pinkanese
    replied
    Originally posted by athomas
    Originally posted by Lancer X
    Is this the HP piston part you're referring to, athomas? Or do I need a whole HP piston "kit"?
    sorry I was late replying. I was away for a couple of days.

    That is the correct piston assembly.
    Sorry I am switching topics here, but would THIS also work, I only ask because it is not marked for high pressure as the other one is.

    Leave a comment:


  • athomas
    replied
    Originally posted by kcombs9
    So if I have shims in with the smallest carrier I should try couple sizes up with no shims and it might not leak? I've yet to chop a ball but as soon as I get the battery charger for my e-mag... my revie wont be able to keep up.

    what If i leave it how it is? will that prevent any chance of it not re cocking if I do get a anti-chop event?
    As mentioned, shims change how far the bolt has to move before it can vent air and reset. Too many shims installed can move the carrier oring too close to the vent hole and may cause a false leak. This leads to the use of a carrier size that is too tight to prevent that leak. If you are not getting any bolt stick, this is probably not the case, but the next time you check your setup it wouldn't hurt to try without any shims installed to see if it makes a difference in how large a carrier size you can achieve before it leaks.

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  • kcombs9
    replied
    Originally posted by Looper
    The shims should only be used if your bolt does not reset after a Anti-Chop event. If your bolt always reset then there is no need for the shims. The shims are basically used to move the timing of when the lvl10 vents.

    The shims can introduce a leak during the process of finding the proper carrier size.
    So if I have shims in with the smallest carrier I should try couple sizes up with no shims and it might not leak? I've yet to chop a ball but as soon as I get the battery charger for my e-mag... my revie wont be able to keep up.

    what If i leave it how it is? will that prevent any chance of it not re cocking if I do get a anti-chop event?

    Leave a comment:


  • Looper
    replied
    Originally posted by kcombs9
    I think I have 2 shims in it atm Ill have to check... Not totally clear on what the shims do. Care to enlighten me
    The shims should only be used if your bolt does not reset after a Anti-Chop event. If your bolt always reset then there is no need for the shims. The shims are basically used to move the timing of when the lvl10 vents.

    The shims can introduce a leak during the process of finding the proper carrier size.

    Leave a comment:


  • kcombs9
    replied
    Originally posted by athomas
    It should be fine. did you set the gun up with no shims installed. If not, remove all shims and try again.

    I think I have 2 shims in it atm Ill have to check... Not totally clear on what the shims do. Care to enlighten me

    Leave a comment:


  • athomas
    replied
    Originally posted by kcombs9
    I am currently using a New carrier O ring from AGD, Just got it from the x vavle parts kit this week. It worked with the 1 dot carrier then near the end of the day It started leaking so I put in the smallest one.

    So I guess as long as it don't start leaking again for a long time I'm all set huh?
    It should be fine. did you set the gun up with no shims installed. If not, remove all shims and try again.

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