** Official Level 10 Problems Thread **

[Lancer X]

I just purchased and installed a level 10 bolt on my Automag classic. When I gas it up, there is resistance behind the trigger but the marker will not fire until I turn up the pressure. About an 1/8th of a turn past where the marker will fire, the valve begins to leak out the back. I have tried several carriers and two and no shims. Any ideas?

Your regulator piston assembly is an older low pressure version. The higher pressure requirements of the level 10 bolt sometimes exceed the safety release pressure of the regulator piston assembly in the older units. You might get away with using the older unit if you make your system more efficient. Use the short gold spring. Use an 11" unported barrel or one that has minimal or very small porting. Keep your velocity down around 280fps or lower. This may get you by until you can get a new piston assembly.

I just bought a Lvl 10 kit to install in my Minimag. Will I also need to get a new reg piston assembly?

[pinkanese]

I hope that some helpful folks still check this thread, anyway need some help with a lvl10 in my classic. Well I guess it just more of a few questions.

The smallest carrier I have is a 1.5, and i seems to work fine, should I be worried about not having any bigger ones to test or just count it as lucky?

Next, At first I had no shims and it stuck occasionally so i added 2 and now it doesn't stick, but it seems to skip when I try to dryfire a long string as fast as I can , is it just eh classic valve n being able to keep up, or should I play with shims some more?

Thanks to anyone who takes the time to read and tries to help .

[athomas]

im using an emag with an x-valve and it leaks out of the rear hole on the top of the xvalve and leaks terribly, but stops when i hold down the trigger. any help would be greatly appreciated.

That is usually an indication of a bad regulator piston oring. Part# 113. The oring may not be bad. It could just be a piece of dirt in the back of the valve. Clean out the velocity adjuster area and see if it helps.

[sMaLlz]

im using an emag with an x-valve and it leaks out of the rear hole on the top of the xvalve and leaks terribly, but stops when i hold down the trigger. any help would be greatly appreciated.

[athomas]

if the washer that goes behind the carrier is chipped on the inside could that cause leaking?

It shouldn't. The washer is only a spacer to prevent the bolt from pushng the carrer oring back into the chamber when there is no air pressure.

if the washer that goes behind the carrier is chipped on the inside could that cause leaking?

[athomas]

So if I order a new regulator piston assembly from the AGD website I should be fine? Should I also replace the spring pack?

Spring pack will be fine. You only need the regulator piston assembly.

[Posey]

So if I order a new regulator piston assembly from the AGD website I should be fine? Should I also replace the spring pack?

[athomas]

I just purchased and installed a level 10 bolt on my Automag classic. When I gas it up, there is resistance behind the trigger but the marker will not fire until I turn up the pressure. About an 1/8th of a turn past where the marker will fire, the valve begins to leak out the back. I have tried several carriers and two and no shims. Any ideas?

Your regulator piston assembly is an older low pressure version. The higher pressure requirements of the level 10 bolt sometimes exceed the safety release pressure of the regulator piston assembly in the older units. You might get away with using the older unit if you make your system more efficient. Use the short gold spring. Use an 11" unported barrel or one that has minimal or very small porting. Keep your velocity down around 280fps or lower. This may get you by until you can get a new piston assembly.

[athomas]

ok so im still getting a leak down the barrel. i tried removing all the shims and the gun fires but still leaks, i then added shims one at a time up to three and still had leaking. i tryed changing to the red spring but it is too hard and causes the gun not to recock after firing. i have the smallest size carrier in too. not only am i getting the leak but every few shots the gun will uncock and i have to push on the bolt to get it going again. so what is it i need to try doing? im very lost all help is needed and apreciated

Adding more shims will never make a leak go away and will usually make the leak worst. Adding a stiffer spring (ie; red spring) requires turning the velocity setting up to get the operating velocity back up to where it was. It won't fire if you don't. If you are getting bolt stick (gun won't re-cock after a shot), you are using a carrier size that is too tight. It is quite possible you have a defective white powertube oring. Change it. Clean your powertube to make sure there is no debris that might cause leaking. Retune your setup once you install the new oring. Use the largest carrier size that doesn't leak. Don't use any shims when testing the carrier size. Always use the same white oring when changing carriers.

Check your sear for wear. A worn sear will allow the bolt to sit too far forward and cause leaking. A missing rail bushing could cause problems too.

[Posey]

I just purchased and installed a level 10 bolt on my Automag classic. When I gas it up, there is resistance behind the trigger but the marker will not fire until I turn up the pressure. About an 1/8th of a turn past where the marker will fire, the valve begins to leak out the back. I have tried several carriers and two and no shims. Any ideas?

ok so im still getting a leak down the barrel. i tried removing all the shims and the gun fires but still leaks, i then added shims one at a time up to three and still had leaking. i tryed changing to the red spring but it is too hard and causes the gun not to recock after firing. i have the smallest size carrier in too. not only am i getting the leak but every few shots the gun will uncock and i have to push on the bolt to get it going again. so what is it i need to try doing? im very lost all help is needed and apreciated

[athomas]

what if i have tested all the carriers and im still getting a leak? i have carrier size #0 in and it fits right but im still getting the leak, i also have 2 shims. do i add more shims? try a harder spring?

As mentioned above, your leak is most likely caused by too many shims. Too many shims will push the carrier and oring so that the bolt stem vent hole is exposed and it will continually leak. Remove your shims and recalibrate your level 10 carrier setup. Always remove the shims when checking carrier sizes to prevent this type of leak from happening.

[secretweaponevan]

what if i have tested all the carriers and im still getting a leak? i have carrier size #0 in and it fits right but im still getting the leak, i also have 2 shims. do i add more shims? try a harder spring?

The shims might be causing the leak. Start with no shims and the largest carrier that doesn't leak. Only add a shim if the bolt fails to reset after a jam.

what if i have tested all the carriers and im still getting a leak? i have carrier size #0 in and it fits right but im still getting the leak, i also have 2 shims. do i add more shims? try a harder spring?