** Official Level 10 Problems Thread **

[athomas]

how can you test for leaks other than the putting it all togather

You can't. You use an educated guess based on feel for your first attempt at a carrier size. It should take almost no force to push the carrier-oring combination onto the bolt stem. With the bolt in the vertical position and the carrier installed onto the stem, pick the bolt up by holding the carrier. Any slight bump should cause the bolt to slide out of the carrier. If it takes more than a slight bump, then it is too tight. If it can't be picked up at all, then it is too loose. That should be a good first test. If you find that it leaks when installed, use the next smaller size. If it doesn't leak, use the next larger size. Always use the size smaller than the one that leaks. Always use the same white oring when testing carrier sizes.

[Tweety]

Your setup should be fine. I use a PE tank on my emag. It works great.

Like I mentioned before, turn up the velocity setting first. The carrier should be as loose as you can get it without leaking (ie; use the largest carrier that doesn't leak). Any tightness on the bolt stem will cause bolt stick. Always test for leaks without any shims installed.

how can you test for leaks other than the putting it all togather

i was mess around with the velocity. i think i made it worse

how do you ajust the velocity i never realy had too with the lvl7 bolt

[athomas]

it is a e-mag i was useing a pure energy tank the level 10 i have a med spring on it and the carrier was only a little tight should the carrier. lean more to the loose side
it makes a little poping sound when when i move the bolt is that a sighn

would the larger chamber pessure efect the air in the tank

Your setup should be fine. I use a PE tank on my emag. It works great.

Like I mentioned before, turn up the velocity setting first. The carrier should be as loose as you can get it without leaking (ie; use the largest carrier that doesn't leak). Any tightness on the bolt stem will cause bolt stick. Always test for leaks without any shims installed.

[Tweety]

What's your setup? What type of mag are you using?

Most likely it is bolt stick. Make sure you turned the velocity up after a level 10 installation. The valve uses a higher chamber pressure to operate the level 10 bolt at the same velocitiy as before. If it still sticks, then you are using a carrier size that is too small making the carrier oring too tight on the bolt stem.

it is a e-mag i was useing a pure energy tank the level 10 i have a med spring on it and the carrier was only a little tight should the carrier. lean more to the loose side
it makes a little poping sound when when i move the bolt is that a sighn

would the larger chamber pessure efect the air in the tank

[athomas]

well i put it all togather and put air to it and it just was makeing a loud click and the bolt was not moving
is it the spring,shimms,carrier
please help

What's your setup? What type of mag are you using?

Most likely it is bolt stick. Make sure you turned the velocity up after a level 10 installation. The valve uses a higher chamber pressure to operate the level 10 bolt at the same velocitiy as before. If it still sticks, then you are using a carrier size that is too small making the carrier oring too tight on the bolt stem.

[Tweety]

well i put it all togather and put air to it and it just was makeing a loud click and the bolt was not moving
is it the spring,shimms,carrier
please help

[athomas]

kind of a noob level 10?

How do i read the carriers. what size is what?

got them all in a bag from agd and would like to know what the lines and dots actualy mean

No lines is the lowest number. Each line represents a number. A dot represents 0.5. Sizing goes from lowest to highest.

[Blacksnake]

kind of a noob level 10?

How do i read the carriers. what size is what?

got them all in a bag from agd and would like to know what the lines and dots actualy mean

[athomas]

thanks for the reply!

i was testing the bolt with my finger right up against the bolt and it's pushing it a far distance (to the other side of the breech) and fairly hard. i have tried the other springs but both won't fire. I assume this is because of the length so I was wondering what was the proper way to cut down in the spring?

i did totally forget about the back pressure caused by the paintball in the barrel in measuring air consumption, that makes me a bit happier

As mentioned by secretweaponevan, don't cut your spring just yet. The extra spring force does require extra chamber pressure, so you will have to increase your velocity setting to overcome the extra tension and get the gun back up to normal shooting velocity.

The red spring is stronger than the short gold one. The long grey spring is the stiffest but may not allow your gun to shoot properly in the range of operation you need. Experimentation will tel you that.

The longer springs are actually slower in cycle time than the shorter/lighter springs. Its the slower forward movement and the higher residual chamber pressure that slows the cycle down although its not really noticed for normal operation. Even electro guns that are properly tuned would be hard pressed to outshoot the capability of a level 10 mag with a stiff spring vs one that had a regular spring.

[secretweaponevan]

thanks for the reply!

i was testing the bolt with my finger right up against the bolt and it's pushing it a far distance (to the other side of the breech) and fairly hard. i have tried the other springs but both won't fire. I assume this is because of the length so I was wondering what was the proper way to cut down in the spring?

i did totally forget about the back pressure caused by the paintball in the barrel in measuring air consumption, that makes me a bit happier

A stronger spring requires that you turn up your velocity to counter the extra spring force.

I wouldn't cut down a spring.

[gunangel]

thanks for the reply!

i was testing the bolt with my finger right up against the bolt and it's pushing it a far distance (to the other side of the breech) and fairly hard. i have tried the other springs but both won't fire. I assume this is because of the length so I was wondering what was the proper way to cut down in the spring?

i did totally forget about the back pressure caused by the paintball in the barrel in measuring air consumption, that makes me a bit happier

[secretweaponevan]

hey guys i would like to request some spring help.

my mag shoots fine and at velocity but the force of the bolt seems a bit high and it seems very very thirsty.

i've been told two things. one switching to the red or silver spring will alleviate this problem but i'm not sure which. i was thinking the red would reset the bolt faster and would require the valve to be turned up which would make the mag thirstier, but the silver spring would return the bolt slower but use less air. and the second i was told that i would probably have to cut the spring, which i'm not sure how to do.

Mags use more air when dry fired than with paint.
The bolt will have more force after it travels .25". Before it travels .25" it is gentle on paint.
As for reset time, we are probably talking about milliseconds here. It makes no difference when the valve can only (I use that word lightly) cycle at ~30 cycles per second.

Read the last paragraph here if you want to fine tune: http://automags.org/resource/level10/index.shtml

[gunangel]

hey guys i would like to request some spring help.

my mag shoots fine and at velocity but the force of the bolt seems a bit high and it seems very very thirsty.

i've been told two things. one switching to the red or silver spring will alleviate this problem but i'm not sure which. i was thinking the red would reset the bolt faster and would require the valve to be turned up which would make the mag thirstier, but the silver spring would return the bolt slower but use less air. and the second i was told that i would probably have to cut the spring, which i'm not sure how to do.

[ezcreation]

The sear may work fine but if there is any wear on the tip where it catches the bolt, it could alter where the bolt is held in place. If the bolt sits too far forward, then it will leak. It doesn't take much.

The rail bushing fits in the rail where the field strip screw holds the valve in place. Without this bushing, the valve will have a tendency to sit too far back when aired up. This effect is the same as having the bolt too far forward and it will leak continuously.

The rail bushing is in place. I have tried another valve in and it shoots no problem, no leak. I do believe now that my valve is defective to be honest.

[athomas]

What do you mean by rail bushing?

I have a continuous leak, I have checked my sear and it works fine, changed all oring and such. Have done the carrier/oil/shims drill but still leaking.

Have not measured the bolt but pretty sure it is the correct size since I have tried several.

The sear may work fine but if there is any wear on the tip where it catches the bolt, it could alter where the bolt is held in place. If the bolt sits too far forward, then it will leak. It doesn't take much.

The rail bushing fits in the rail where the field strip screw holds the valve in place. Without this bushing, the valve will have a tendency to sit too far back when aired up. This effect is the same as having the bolt too far forward and it will leak continuously.