** Official Level 10 Problems Thread **

[RogueMMPT]

Ok, got the reg piston out and swapped it out with one from another marker. Leaks less, but still leaks.

[RogueMMPT]

No, I didn't try the grey one. Everything I did see said the leaking was a result of the spring being too long, so I went with the shorter ones.

So, reg piston, eh? I'll have to try to swap it out...how do I remove it?

Thanks!

It's your reg piston. You'll need a new one. The older style ones can't handle the pressure that it takes to move the lvl 10.

You didn't happen to use the gray spring did you?

[Ando]

It's your reg piston. You'll need a new one. The older style ones can't handle the pressure that it takes to move the lvl 10.

You didn't happen to use the gray spring did you?

[RogueMMPT]

Micromag with lvl 10 upgrade kit.

I recently aquired a Micromag with a MicroMag bolt. I Installed the lvl X upgrade kit tonight and it vents out the rear velocity adjuster. It has one of those "dial a welt" toolless adjusters and vents out the center. I replaced all the orings in the bolt and lubed it well. I have to turn it way up to get it to fire and then it vents like made out the rear. I tried the shortest of the two springs and the original spring with the same result. Any suggestions?

I'm sorry, but after a long day, I didn't have the patience to read all 72 pages.


Thanks!

[athomas]

So took her completely apart, included the valve. Greased everthing back up, oil. And as I was putting her together, decided to check fittings. Last one I blew into was not flowing. Took it off and attached to inside of the fitting was a little brass filter. Whole time it was this damn thing blocking the flow of air, took it off and she shoots fine.

Sometimes its the simplest of things that we overlook. Years ago people used to put those filters in to catch rust and debris from old CO2 tanks. There shouldn't have been one on the RT since they don't use CO2.

[C_losjoker]

So took her completely apart, included the valve. Greased everthing back up, oil. And as I was putting her together, decided to check fittings. Last one I blew into was not flowing. Took it off and attached to inside of the fitting was a little brass filter. Whole time it was this damn thing blocking the flow of air, took it off and she shoots fine.

[athomas]

Tried that, change and used different springs, even played with sear length. Got the same results. Going too try going up one carrier, see what happens. Now its getting personal.

The sear/trigger pin length shouldn't make a difference unless the trigger pin is constantly in contact with the back of the trigger when the gun is aired up. If there is a gap behind the trigger when you hold the trigger against the safety, then it should be good to go.

Try the shorter gold spring, first. The gun should fire with that spring installed. Its a good idea to check the carrier as well. Use the largest carrier than doesn't produce a leak. Remember to use the same oring in each carrier that you try. Keep the shims out of it.

[C_losjoker]

As mentioned, you will need to increase the velocity setting (chamber pressure) to fire the level 10 mag. The level 10 takes a higher chamber pressure to overcome the bolt spring force due to the smaller bolt stem diameter at the carrier oring.

Tried that, change and used different springs, even played with sear length. Got the same results. Going too try going up one carrier, see what happens. Now its getting personal.

[athomas]

Ok guys I have a classic rt that I installed level ten on. On first air up I got leaks down the barrel after I pulled the trigger, pulling trigger again did not change anything. Took apart, change carrier, took out shims and put back together. Now I have no leaks but no trigger pull. When I air it up I feel the pressure and sear on the trigger, but when I pull the trigger I get no shot. There is a light tension on the trigger almost like its on a very weak spring when I pull it, trigger bounces back to be pulled again.

So what am I over looking, sure its something simple.
Thanks.

As mentioned, you will need to increase the velocity setting (chamber pressure) to fire the level 10 mag. The level 10 takes a higher chamber pressure to overcome the bolt spring force due to the smaller bolt stem diameter at the carrier oring.

[Ando]

Bump up your pressure. It take a little more to over come the lvl 10 and spring. If you have the silver spring installed remove it. Do your initial tune with the gold then fine tune it you want to with the silver. The silver spring will need to be cut to attain what ever FPS your looking at achieving.

[C_losjoker]

RT with level 10

Ok guys I have a classic rt that I installed level ten on. On first air up I got leaks down the barrel after I pulled the trigger, pulling trigger again did not change anything. Took apart, change carrier, took out shims and put back together. Now I have no leaks but no trigger pull. When I air it up I feel the pressure and sear on the trigger, but when I pull the trigger I get no shot. There is a light tension on the trigger almost like its on a very weak spring when I pull it, trigger bounces back to be pulled again.

So what am I over looking, sure its something simple.
Thanks.

[athomas]

Ok, I finally got my x-valve/level 10 perfectly tuned. I put a paintball with some tape on it, put it halfway in the breech, pulled the trigger, *CHUFF* and then it recocks, paintball perfectly fine. Also, I have a 45ci ninja tank and a a guerilla 62/3k steelie tank. With the steelie, it rips but with the ninja tank it just single balls and I can't get it to rt. The ninja tank is stock adjustable reg but it's set to 700-850ish psi output and the guerilla steelie is just a regular guerilla regulator. Will a difference of that much psi mean the difference between an rt and a single balling x-valve? Like if the ninja tank is at say....800 and the guerilla is at 850?

You need a higher pressure to become reactive, especially with a level 10 bolt system installed. Another part of the equation, is the flow rate of the regulator and air lines of the gun setup at the desired pressure output. High pressure flow rate is not affected as much by airline restrictions as lower pressures. The mag valve is not supposed to be reactive, but will be in its native state with a level 7 bolt and a high flow 850psi tank. Once you put a level 10 bolt on it and lower the input pressure, you reduce the reactivity by a large amount.

[DCx7]

Ok, I finally got my x-valve/level 10 perfectly tuned. I put a paintball with some tape on it, put it halfway in the breech, pulled the trigger, *CHUFF* and then it recocks, paintball perfectly fine. Also, I have a 45ci ninja tank and a a guerilla 62/3k steelie tank. With the steelie, it rips but with the ninja tank it just single balls and I can't get it to rt. The ninja tank is stock adjustable reg but it's set to 700-850ish psi output and the guerilla steelie is just a regular guerilla regulator. Will a difference of that much psi mean the difference between an rt and a single balling x-valve? Like if the ninja tank is at say....800 and the guerilla is at 850?

[gibby]

A new LX kit comes with everything needed for a level 10 installation. It includes the bolt, bolt springs, carriers, shims, powertube tip, orings. If you already have the level 10 bolt installed, all you need are some carriers, a bolt spring, and a few orings.

You should order a range of carrier sizes from 0 to 2.5. You won't need to order the size that you already have installed. Order a couple of extra white carrier orings. Order at least one extra middle bolt spring(I think they are only available in long now) and a short one. Order a couple of shims (although you shouldn't ever have to install them unless there is a major tolerance issue with your sear/rail setup. You can still use them to shim your on-off assembly.

You should also make sure you have a spare valve oring kit if you don't already have one.

Take the shims out of the level 10 setup you have now. It might help.

AWESOME! Thanks for the reply and the advice! I'll let you know if I have any issues.

[athomas]

Hey guys, I'm trying to fix up my wife's RTP and her LX hasn't been tuned for many years now and leaks down the power tube. I've also misplaced all the carriers, shims, spacers, orings, etc. If I may ask, what's the part list/count that normally comes with a new LX kit?

I'd love to be able to order these parts from AGD and get it fixed ASAP. Thanks!

A new LX kit comes with everything needed for a level 10 installation. It includes the bolt, bolt springs, carriers, shims, powertube tip, orings. If you already have the level 10 bolt installed, all you need are some carriers, a bolt spring, and a few orings.

You should order a range of carrier sizes from 0 to 2.5. You won't need to order the size that you already have installed. Order a couple of extra white carrier orings. Order at least one extra middle bolt spring(I think they are only available in long now) and a short one. Order a couple of shims (although you shouldn't ever have to install them unless there is a major tolerance issue with your sear/rail setup. You can still use them to shim your on-off assembly.

You should also make sure you have a spare valve oring kit if you don't already have one.

Take the shims out of the level 10 setup you have now. It might help.