** Official Level 10 Problems Thread **

[athomas]

Sounds good. I changed up to the red spring and then it would stop on a simple hair from my head, but then it wouldn't cycle all the way through. The bolt is sticking now, gr, haha. Any ideas?

Jake

The carrier setup should work for all springs. If it sticks with any of the springs, then it isn't properly tuned. Remember to remove all the shims when tuning. They can sometimes cause you to use a carrier that is a size too tight.

[redarmy27]

Your spring is worn. Change up to the red and you'll see a world of difference. No other tuning will be needed but a bump on the velocity.

Sounds good. I changed up to the red spring and then it would stop on a simple hair from my head, but then it wouldn't cycle all the way through. The bolt is sticking now, gr, haha. Any ideas?

Jake

[Ando]

I'm currenly using the "gold spring"

Your spring is worn. Change up to the red and you'll see a world of difference. No other tuning will be needed but a bump on the velocity.

[redarmy27]

Changed to ULE Body

Hey guys, I love my 'mag and my level X now!

Bought a ULE body a few months ago and just got it on my mag. I love the look of it now. I switched everything over and the marker shoots but my level X isn't being as gentle now as it hits anything in the breach incredibly hard. It'll still back off a bit, but it isn't as soft as it once was.

It's only been "hitting harder" since I changed to the ULE body. Any thoughts on this? The bolt isn't sticking at all. I'm currenly using the "gold spring" from the Level X kit and five shims in. The oring and carrier are spot on for size.

Any thoughts?

Jake

[Boobie817]

Yes, I should have mentioned that too. It is the oring that you are adjusting when you change carrier sizes. If you change orings, you need to adjust the inner diameter of the new oring using the different sized carriers. The proper carrier adjusts the inner diameter of the oring to seal against the bolt stem without any added friction.

i thonk im off by one size. the gun worked flawlessly today then at the second to last game it jammed up. hopefully i can get this fixed. if i get my cocker working first this could turn out bad. lol

[athomas]

I didn't think of that. I just put in a new o ring.

Yes, I should have mentioned that too. It is the oring that you are adjusting when you change carrier sizes. If you change orings, you need to adjust the inner diameter of the new oring using the different sized carriers. The proper carrier adjusts the inner diameter of the oring to seal against the bolt stem without any added friction.

[Boobie817]

Well hate to burst your bubble but you have to resize the carrier to the new oring. Every oring is different and will need to be readjusted.

I didn't think of that. I just put in a new o ring.

[athomas]

I'm trying to read through all the threads but its hard. Especially with 70 pages. I have an Xvalve with ULT and lvl x. It was tuned and worked perfect for years. I just changed to a warp left ule body and I'm getting bolt stick. I tried different carrier all new orings, different springs and just can't figure it out. I'm using the second smallest carrier with just a dot on it and no shims. I'm using the smallest spring too. This setup works flawlessy for years. Even last sept it was fine. The ule body was new. Please help.
Sometimes the gun will fire. When it sticks its not resetting. I can push the bolt back with my squeegee and its fine until it sticks again. I can hear the air slowly venting if I wait then it clicks and resets.

Does the new body fit flat on the rail? Check that the feed tube does not rest on the side of the rail and prevent the body from sitting down tight. Some rails need to have a bit of metal filed away to allow this to happen.

[Ando]

Well hate to burst your bubble but you have to resize the carrier to the new oring. Every oring is different and will need to be readjusted.

[Boobie817]

Is that the smallest carrier that won't leak?

yes. this setup has worked fine for years. i set this up in 04. i switched to a ule body about 2 months ago and now i have bolt stick. cant figure it out. can a body make me have to retune the lvl x again?

[Ando]

I'm using the second smallest carrier with just a dot on it and no shims. I'm using the smallest spring too.

Is that the smallest carrier that won't leak?

[Boobie817]

bolt stick

I'm trying to read through all the threads but its hard. Especially with 70 pages. I have an Xvalve with ULT and lvl x. It was tuned and worked perfect for years. I just changed to a warp left ule body and I'm getting bolt stick. I tried different carrier all new orings, different springs and just can't figure it out. I'm using the second smallest carrier with just a dot on it and no shims. I'm using the smallest spring too. This setup works flawlessy for years. Even last sept it was fine. The ule body was new. Please help.
Sometimes the gun will fire. When it sticks its not resetting. I can push the bolt back with my squeegee and its fine until it sticks again. I can hear the air slowly venting if I wait then it clicks and resets.

[athomas]

Sorry if this has been answered already but this thread is a mile long. First off I am using a used X Valve with a lvl X bolt, ULT and not much for lvl X parts as it did not come with any extra carriers or springs. Warp left Ule body, AM/MM rail and an E Grip frame. My problem is that the gun will fire and not leak at the bolt but the bolt does not always want to reset all the way. I have plenty of clearance in regards to the sear and the solinoid. I have also replaced the regulator piston but it is still leaking from the velocity adjustment.

You shouldn't have had to replace the regulator piston in an X-valve. They had the high pressure pistons from the factory, and most haven't been around long enough to be bad. If its leaking out the back, then you probably have a piece of dirt in the back section of the valve. When you reset the bolt and shoot, is the velocity setting correct, or is it high? A high velocity that doesn't go down when adjusted, would indicate a bad regulator seat oring in the valve. If it leaks all the time, then the problem is a bad/dirty oring around the regulator piston assembly or a bad regulator piston assembly. Since they usually don't leak, and you already replaced yours, I would suspect the problem is one of the orings.

For the bolt sticking, the problem is most likely that the level 10 carrier is too tight. You need a set of carriers to properly adjust the inner diameter of the carrier oring. It could also be that the ULT has one too many shim installed, but I would tune the level 10 first.

[Flatliner333]

Sorry if this has been answered already but this thread is a mile long. First off I am using a used X Valve with a lvl X bolt, ULT and not much for lvl X parts as it did not come with any extra carriers or springs. Warp left Ule body, AM/MM rail and an E Grip frame. My problem is that the gun will fire and not leak at the bolt but the bolt does not always want to reset all the way. I have plenty of clearance in regards to the sear and the solinoid. I have also replaced the regulator piston but it is still leaking from the velocity adjustment.

[factoid]

A combination of a new (used) RT Pro rail and a tighter carrier solved it. FINALLY.

I'm pretty sure something is out of spec on the AM/MM rail I was using. This is the second gun I've had it on that had chronic level 10 leaking problems.

I was leaking on gas-up just a little when I switched rails so I put on a 0 carrier and that solved it. I think I finally broke in the o-ring playing last weekend so it should stay tuned now. The bolt is pretty tight on the powertube, but it shows no signs of bolt stick.