** Official Level 10 Problems Thread **

[gibby]

Hey guys, I'm trying to fix up my wife's RTP and her LX hasn't been tuned for many years now and leaks down the power tube. I've also misplaced all the carriers, shims, spacers, orings, etc. If I may ask, what's the part list/count that normally comes with a new LX kit?

I'd love to be able to order these parts from AGD and get it fixed ASAP. Thanks!

[DCx7]

Alright thanks guys, I'll check if there's anything else wrong when I fill up my tank.

[athomas]

The tiny leak for a couple of seconds is normal for some level 10 setups if the sealing edge of the oring is close to the vent hole. It leaks until the oring gets pushed forward past the vent hole enough to seal the bolt stem. Remove the shims and it should go away. If not, then I wouldn't worry about it as long as it isn't a continuous leak.

[sjrtk]

Alright, so I got an x-valve a couple weeks ago and I've been having some problem tuning it. I got it to shoot pretty well now but if you hold the trigger, it'll leak for a couple seconds then stop. The level 10 works pretty darn well since I tried to shoot as fast as I could and nothing. I've shot a bunch and all I've gotten were barrel breaks not breech breaks. So any ideas on my problem with the little leaking? I'm using the .5 carrier size, the medium spring, and 2 shims. Thanks Tom.

Take the shims out and recheck the leak. I run (like alot of guys here) 0 shims in the level 10 on 3 different RT valves, and 1 shim in my classic valve.

[DCx7]

Alright, so I got an x-valve a couple weeks ago and I've been having some problem tuning it. I got it to shoot pretty well now but if you hold the trigger, it'll leak for a couple seconds then stop. The level 10 works pretty darn well since I tried to shoot as fast as I could and nothing. I've shot a bunch and all I've gotten were barrel breaks not breech breaks. So any ideas on my problem with the little leaking? I'm using the .5 carrier size, the medium spring, and 2 shims. Thanks Tom.

[rparker35]

The shims don't do anything for your level 10. Adding shims helps the bolt vent air air sooner. If the bolt vents air in any way already, then shims won't help, but may make the problem worst. Take out all the shims when tuning your level 10 to prevent shim induced leaks.

It does sound like you have bolt stick due to having a carrier size that is too tight. You need to get a larger carrier size. You should have an array of sizes so that you can correctly adjust the carrier oring tension of your level 10 oring and bolt setup. Without the proper carriers, you will be lucky to get it working properly.

Thanks for the help everyone. Since I picked the gun up used, I don't have any different sized carriers. So, I just placed an order with AGD for a variety of carrier sizes, along with some sapre o-rings and a couple new springs. Hopefully once all that arrives I will be able to tune the Level 10 perfectly.

Thanks again.


UPDATE - Received the carriers, new spring, and other spare o-rings from AGD. I replaced all the o-rings in the power tube, removed the shims, added the new bolt spring, and then tried out different carriers until it was perfect. Gun now shoots very well with no leaking down the barrel and no bolt stick. Thanks for the help guys!

[athomas]

Ok, I have an issue with my Level 10 that I am hoping you guys can help me with. I have a 100% stock RT Pro with X Valve and Level 10 bolt. I am using a Ninja Air SHP reg with an output of approximately 1100 psi.

The gun is able to RT with no trouble at all, which is great, but every so often my bolt will stick forward and de-gas. I picked the gun up used, so I don't have all the spare parts that came with the Level 10 when new, so not sure how to proceed. I do have an X Valve parts kit that had a few Level 10 items in it, including shims. The gun currently has 2 shims. I tried 0, 1, 2, 3, 4 shims and the best was 2, but still had the problem of the bolt sticking forward. I do not have different carriers to try.

I have tried turning the velocity all the way up, but no change. Sometimes the bolt will return after it sticks forward and I can re-fire the gun, other times I have to use a squeegee to push it back. To me it almost seems as though the bolt spring is not strong enough to always return the bolt back. Please let me know if you have any suggestions.

Thanks in advance.

The shims don't do anything for your level 10. Adding shims helps the bolt vent air air sooner. If the bolt vents air in any way already, then shims won't help, but may make the problem worst. Take out all the shims when tuning your level 10 to prevent shim induced leaks.

It does sound like you have bolt stick due to having a carrier size that is too tight. You need to get a larger carrier size. You should have an array of sizes so that you can correctly adjust the carrier oring tension of your level 10 oring and bolt setup. Without the proper carriers, you will be lucky to get it working properly.

[Ando]

Could be the spring but I would tune the lvl 10 first just to make sure you have it setup right. If you have a spare oring kit. Take the spare spring out and install it. That will alleviate the spring being the cause.

[rparker35]

Ok, I have an issue with my Level 10 that I am hoping you guys can help me with. I have a 100% stock RT Pro with X Valve and Level 10 bolt. I am using a Ninja Air SHP reg with an output of approximately 1100 psi.

The gun is able to RT with no trouble at all, which is great, but every so often my bolt will stick forward and de-gas. I picked the gun up used, so I don't have all the spare parts that came with the Level 10 when new, so not sure how to proceed. I do have an X Valve parts kit that had a few Level 10 items in it, including shims. The gun currently has 2 shims. I tried 0, 1, 2, 3, 4 shims and the best was 2, but still had the problem of the bolt sticking forward. I do not have different carriers to try.

I have tried turning the velocity all the way up, but no change. Sometimes the bolt will return after it sticks forward and I can re-fire the gun, other times I have to use a squeegee to push it back. To me it almost seems as though the bolt spring is not strong enough to always return the bolt back. Please let me know if you have any suggestions.

Thanks in advance.

[athomas]

I hate sounding so ignorant, so I appreciate your answers. The rail bushing is the one on the back of the rail correct, and not the twist lock thingy on the front

Correct.

The person asking questions is never the ignorant one. The person who assumes the answer without asking the question is.

[stevewar]

Generally, if the rail bushing is missing, it causes the level 10 bolt stem to be at the wrong location, but more importantly, the sear contacts the on-off pin at a different spot and at a different angle. It can cause timing issues and sticking. These can be very random because the valve can move back and forth the thickness of the bushing in both the forward and backwards direction. The total movement would be twice the thickness. Most of the time the bolt spring pushes the valve to the rear most position and it is held in place when the air charges the front chamber.

I hate sounding so ignorant, so I appreciate your answers. The rail bushing is the one on the back of the rail correct, and not the twist lock thingy on the front

[athomas]

what kind of issues would you see with a a missing rail bushing

Generally, if the rail bushing is missing, it causes the level 10 bolt stem to be at the wrong location, but more importantly, the sear contacts the on-off pin at a different spot and at a different angle. It can cause timing issues and sticking. These can be very random because the valve can move back and forth the thickness of the bushing in both the forward and backwards direction. The total movement would be twice the thickness. Most of the time the bolt spring pushes the valve to the rear most position and it is held in place when the air charges the front chamber.

[stevewar]

Due to friction, a tighter carrier would cause the oring to be pushed back farther when the bolt is at rest. If the vent hole is close to the oring , then it could leak. When you use the proper carrier, the oring fits properly and doesn't get pushed back so it doesn't expose the vent hole and leak. However, low pressure causes the oring not to seal as tight against the bolt stem. This is normally not a problem unless the oring is close to the vent hole. A loose fitting oring on the edge of the vent hole may allow some air to creep by. I think there is some wear in your assembly. probably on your sear. Also, check that your rail bushing is in place. It probably is, because there would be other issues if it was missing.

what kind of issues would you see with a a missing rail bushing

[aerosaaber]

sear is literally brand new and rail bushing is in place.
still have to check for spacers hiding in there.

[athomas]

I don't think there are any spacers in there, only plastic washer type thing at the bottom. I'll have another look at it to be sure.

If no shims are installed, another cause could be a worn sear or missing rail bushing.