XMOD BETA Testers ONLY (Questions/Comments)

[Rudz]

uh huh

Little late in for me but....

Finally had a chance to get paint thru it and over all it seems to work pretty well. I did notice from time to time that it doesn't always match the ROF set in real fire even tho on dry fire it seems to. Haven't had a chance to look into it more , could be a mech issue as I was using 'test' Emag of mine that normally shoot very well but hasn't had an AGD board in it for while.

(till now)

I'll try and do a better job of testing it this weekend.

Over all tho, great work Lorne , pretty clean code over all... nice work.

i made a vid of rof 20..and went full auto..it looks or sounds nothing like 20 bps..i tried some new settings and made a dry fire vid without paint..but the things to huge to upload..its like 60 mb..i dont have ant video editing software installed..and my hardrived maxxed out..so i guess im gonna have to wait..but if anyone has some video editing software..i can can " borrow" pm me please..the dry fire vid went up to 24 bps..my emag didnt like 26..ill try when i get my new tank..i can set the psi up to 1100..so maybe thatll do the trick..i havent had a chance to chrono this beast yet..then ill get some actual numbers..i wonder why its off tho..any ideas?

[Outlaw5]

Off a little????

Rudz, There are two things that I found out in my trials so far. 1) The marker must be perfectly mechanically sound. You must have the plunger and noid working perfectly with regards to drag, ie NONE!!!!! The 3.2 code would not pronounce any minor problems but wouldn't run the marker as the XMOD code does so it wasn't important on a perfectly mechanically sound the marker. 2) Be careful with the dwell setting on the marker. If you have a high dwell, over 20ish, you will have more power and more time being used to activate the noid. That tini millisecond of extra time "slows" the marker down at the High ROFs that you were shooting at.

Now, Lornecash, Big Evil or one of the other geniuses on this thread.....That sounds right.......yes??????? If not then listen to Lornecash and the gurus but I think I'm very close. Good Luck, Jerry "Outlaw5" Perkins, SF, De Oppresso Liber

[BigEvil]

Now, Lornecash, Big Evil or one of the other geniuses on this thread.....

genius? you must have me mistaken with someone else.

Lorne now on the other hand... you hit the nail right on the head.

[Jotsy]

i dunno if this has been mentioned before but i found that rotating the plunger of the noid around a certain amount really helped reduce the drag. there seems to be a certain angle or position at which the plunger moves best which i assume would be different from noid to noid.

also, try moving the plunger down a little bit. i found that my plunger was way higher up the sear than it needed to be. i guess this was AGD being safe? anyways, what i did was i put it in mechanical mode and held the trigger down, then with the trigger held down, i moved the plunger down to within a millimeter of the bottom of the noid (not exactly to the bottom tho... just to be safe). this way, when the on/off resets the sear, the plunger doesn't move too far up and the noid has an easier time pulling it back and doesn't suffer plunger stick.

i found this helped me greatly with battery life and reliability.

[RRfireblade]

i dunno if this has been mentioned before but i found that rotating the plunger of the noid around a certain amount really helped reduce the drag. there seems to be a certain angle or position at which the plunger moves best which i assume would be different from noid to noid.

also, try moving the plunger down a little bit. i found that my plunger was way higher up the sear than it needed to be. i guess this was AGD being safe? anyways, what i did was i put it in mechanical mode and held the trigger down, then with the trigger held down, i moved the plunger down to within a millimeter of the bottom of the noid (not exactly to the bottom tho... just to be safe). this way, when the on/off resets the sear, the plunger doesn't move too far up and the noid has an easier time pulling it back and doesn't suffer plunger stick.

i found this helped me greatly with battery life and reliability.

There's a spec for the plunger rod length , it is 3.005" The plunger has a strength ratio dependant on the position of the plunger , it's important that's it's in the correct position. (as per AGDs spec)

And if turning it changes it's alignment in the niod body ,then you rod is bent and 'should' be replaced or staightend , if possible. :)

[BigEvil]

yes, that spec is very important. Some of them loosen up from constant use. Ive seen a few that the loc-tite is totally gone.
Also, the plunger should move absolutely loose and feely in the noid. If it doesnt, replace the whole thing.

[temilotzin]

The way my low battery message works is it will only tell you low batt either when you turn the gun on or if you try to enter the menus. It does not flash during normal operation like other software virsions have done.

Here's another test for all of you to try:
Air up your gun and set it to full auto. then pull the trigger back in e mode harder than you would normally pull but not too hard. (ROF really doesn't matter) let the gun shoot and if you can feel any trigger movement you need to adjust your trigger rod. I was having mad and I mean MAD bouncing problems until I did that.

temilotzin,
try the test described above let me know what the results are because if one tank had more pressure it would bounce more depending on the tank that's about the only thing I can think of as for why a tank would affect anything. I'll keep thinking about it though as I wait for your response.

[BigEvil]

Up the FIX.

[Rudz]

hmmm

ill look at my plunger and see whats up..can anyone post piks of plunger and niod..and what they did exactly?? plz??

[Jotsy]

There's a spec for the plunger rod length , it is 3.005" The plunger has a strength ratio dependant on the position of the plunger , it's important that's it's in the correct position. (as per AGDs spec)

And if turning it changes it's alignment in the niod body ,then you rod is bent and 'should' be replaced or staightend , if possible. :)

so what exactly happens if the plunger isn't at the AGD spec position? particularly interested in what happens if its further into the noid than it should be (further down the sear)

[BigEvil]

so what exactly happens if the plunger isn't at the AGD spec position? particularly interested in what happens if its further into the noid than it should be (further down the sear)

If the plunger is longer (further in the noid), it shouldnt hurt since the noid had more meat to grab. However, if it is extremely long, you might start getting bolt and sear wear, so be careful.


If it is too short (Not far enough in) than it will hurt since then it wont have as much to grab.

The plunger should also move freely in the solenoid. If there are spots where it doesnt, you should probably replace the solenoid. They come with the plunger. If you buy the noid and sear together from Tuna, he will set the adjustment to spec for you , so all you would have to do is drop everything in.

[dacnar]

First report

Ok Today was my first time playing with my xmoded emag, my set was as follows:

Black E-mag w/x valve ,with xmod 1.6.1
empire reloader b
pmi 88 4500

xmod settings:

dwel :15
rof: 17
fix: 34
mode: semi

Wow!! what can I say, the gun worked flawlessly. I did not have any issues with the gun going into full auto, I think I can probably lower the fix and the dwel settings a bit, but it worked great. I definitely noticed the increase in the rof with the xmod, it fired faster on 17 bps than it did on 20bps with 3.2.
I did not have a chance to test the gun on any of the other modes yet. has anyone noticed an increase in their shots per tank fill. I fired around 1100-1200 shots today and I still had 1000 psi left in my tank at the end of the day!!! the gun definitely seems to be more air efficient.

Well that's it for today, next time out I will try out the other modes, but let everyone say to Paul for a great job!!!

[hitech]

I finally got a chance to fire my emag with air. It is a very old emag with probably many hundreds of thousands of rounds through it. Using these settings:
Level 10 w/short spring
Dwell - 15
Fix - 1
Input pressure - 825

I was able to fire successfully at these rates of fire:
10
15
16
17

At 18 the level 10 started to chuff. The ROFs appeared correct to me. I do have experience with 20bps fullauto from my hyperframe video . No fullauto problem or bounce in semi, but AGD already fixed it w/4.0.

I tried the ramping modes and everything appeared fine.

Now to actually put some rounds through it.

Can anyone tell me from where to where you measure the solenoid plunger?

[BigEvil]

Can anyone tell me from where to where you measure the solenoid plunger?

I believe it is from the bottom of the plunger to the top of the sear clevis.

[LorneCash]

I meant to do some programming/work on the manual this weekend but there were two things that hindered me. The first I just got an XBOX 360, and the second I need to get a part for my KVM because the computer I do all my coding on had to be moved to a 15" monitor until that part comes in, and I refuse to try and program while using only a 15" display. If you've ever programmed I'm sure you'll understand.

With all the mechanical problems people have been having I think it would help if I added a section to the next revision of the manual on Mechanical Perfection.

Here is my list of topics so far:
1. Solenoid Plunger length
2. Aquiring a Freely moving Solenoid Plunger (How to bend it back to strait if it's not)
3. Sear Length and Mechanical Bounce

Here's my question, what else would you like to see some nice digital pics and/or detailed description of?

Also... here my next challenge question for my hard core BETA testers. How does input pressure affect max ROF with a Mag. I don't care if it's an E or an X but it must have the X-Valve. I need a couple different people with adjustable input HPA tanks that can verify this so the results can be compared for consistancy tank to tank and gun to gun. I would like know values for 750, 800, 850, 900, 950, 1000. If you can go higher in 50psi incraments that's great. Also please verify that your psi is what it says it is by something other than the valve on your tank, because I know the gages they use on the tanks are only acurate + or - 20 to 30 psi. I'm not sure what the best way to do that is but maybe someone else can suggest that. As far as the actual test I think it would be sufficient to set the gun to full auto with no paint and just listen for nice rythmic shoots vs shootdown but testing may prove different. Oh and make sure your gun is chronoed to 300fps before you start that will also help keep things consistent. The reason I ask this is so that I can better suggest a max ROF to people in the manual based on their input pressure. Especially people with fixed tanks.