Finished my Pnuematic Trigger Frame...

[onedude36]

I think the reason a palmers rock is used is that it can take 800 psi and take it down th the 50-70 that is needed. Most lprs cant do that, although i havent read anything about these sp regs.

[Gunther_mag_user]

any of you guys tried putting a counter force like a spring to help push the trigger? just a thought

yeah I thought of that yesterday. You could even use the magnets agd uses for emags.

[Established420]

I just ordered all the parts to start this project. Well actually I am missing one, the msv-1. I live in northern NJ and everywhere I call has a minimum order of three or atleast 25 dollars and I only want one. Does anyone have any suggestions of where I should go? So far I talked to ALL air and one other one in rochester i think.

[ZapTheMad]

Hey guys, I discovered a timing issue with the Fabco MSV-1 valve that may be seriously affecting your efficiency and pull length. Look closely in the exhaust holes on your valve while pushing it without air (you still have your spring in there right?). You will see that the exhaust ports are still about half open when the valve starts to crack. This is not good since you are wasting gas every time you pull the trigger! I got a few of these valves and I discovered this because one of them was exhausting really loud. That was a bad valve, but I found this timing problem while investigating the issue. BTW, on a good valve, there should be almost ZERO blowby when holding your valve open, barely a tiny hiss. If your valve is hissing loudly while holding it open, get a new one.

The exhaust problem can be easily fixed. First you need to take the valve apart. Be careful and don't lose the tiny parts! There is loctite on the plug so it will be stiff, make sure you use the correct size screwdriver or you might damage something. On the pin valve, the part with oring on it, you need to shave about .010" to .015" off the front tip of that part. A piece of 600 grit sandpaper on a flat surface works well. What you are doing is letting the button rest farther in the valve so it completely blocks the exhaust port. Sand a little off the tip and put it back in the valve to check the ports. Keep doing this until you can see the exhaust port completely blocked when the button is at rest. Now clean everything out really good (I like to use automotive brake cleaner spray then compressed air to dry), reassemble, and seal it up (loctite or tape on rear plug). You can adjust the tension on the spring while doing this. Don't screw the plug in as far to get less tension, or simply take the spring out. The operating pressure should be sufficient to keep the valve closed while gassed up.

After you have it fixed, you should see an increase in shots per fill (since you aren't wasting gas to an open exhaust). It should also lower your operating pressure since there is less blowby while the valve functions. You should also be able to set your trigger up a little shorter since you don't have to close the exhaust in each pull.

When setting your trigger up, make sure you leave a slight gap, around .010" to .015" between the trigger and valve button. What you are doing here is allowing the button room to push out against the trigger and crack the exhaust ports. You dont need much since the QEV is in the circuit. All you want to do is exhaust enough gas to open the QEV in a timely manner. Play with your trigger stops and find the sweet spot.

Now that everything is set up your trigger pull might be about half what it was. Before, it took about .025" to .040" of button movement to close the exhaust and open the valve. Now that the exhaust is already closed, it should only take about .010" to .020" of movement to open the valve enough to fire the ram.

I fiddled with all this on the test bench, now I just need to hack up my intelliframe!

[CAPTINSANE]

brilliant work Zap

*copy...paste into notes

my palmers should arrive very soon...i am bursting with excitement

[Duck Hunt]

I stated MUCH earlier in this post about the exhaust on the Fabco valve. That is the downfall of a valve with such a small travel length.

I've only skimmed through most of the current posts lately, mainly because its people asking for another step-by-step because they're too lazy to re-read the post, but I've noticed alot of people wanting to lower the trigger weight on the Fabco valve.

WHY?!?! Its damn near an electro's weight, and when you have a very low trigger weight that means you need to use artificial means to make the trigger return faster. Try a harder trigger pull, it means shorter trigger return time and faster trigger speed.

Sean

[CAPTINSANE]

agreed...a lot of whinging on this thread...but a lot of usefull contributions also...like the spam i am contributing right now. I agree...i think the whole...lets get it less than an ounce stuff...is getting of the track...my mate with a shocker is slowly bringing out his trigger because he is finding that the 'longer' and harder the oull the more he can ealk it. Understandably this is only to an extent...but if i can walk the ULT..going right down to 1 ounce is a huge step, all of which is robably not needed. what was the oull on an Angel again??? 3 ounces...what was the oull on an E Mag again...6 ounces???

[sledgebone]

links

is there anyway the links on the first page can be fixed? I read phis got a new isp but does anyone have them saved and can post new ones?

[Recon by Fire]

I already have my Tac One set up pretty nice with a few extra shims in the ULT and running 900+ psi input, is a pneu-mag conversion too much for this set-up? What do you think?

[CAPTINSANE]

I already have my Tac One set up pretty nice with a few extra shims in the ULT and running 900+ psi input, is a pneu-mag conversion too much for this set-up? What do you think?

This is exactly my situation

I have bought everything so i don't see why i should stop there...my mag runs fine with out this pneu mod...but i can do it...so i will

[sarge40]

[FONT=Arial]There has been a lot of real good info on the parts to make this but has anyone thought about a grip frame that could split and parts added. Seems to me that this would be the next logical step. Even if it only came apart in the area behind the trigger and had one side solid for attaching components to it. Then there would be messy holes in the back of the grip and the trigger guard wound be intact.

From that point a lever could be added behind the trigger to push the valve when the trigger is pulled. I have tried this with the MSV-2 valve but fount that I had to install a stronger spring to close the valve. To activate the lever I used a longer set screw at the upper area of the trigger. The end result is very impressive, the trigger can be walked but not like an Electro, it must be pulled and released not just drummed on.

[Wassupstranger67]

I have the msv valve in my frame and it can be compared to a shocker, with a trigger job. I have found out that it is lighter than most electronic guns. The trigger runs around 70 - 80 psi.

[UltraMag527]

Mead-usa products

Click below:

http://www.mead-usa.com/products/detail.aspx?id=27

I was thinking of using one of these for the acuator. Comments are welcome... Thx!!!

[Wassupstranger67]

There worth trying, I had to modify my actuator quite a bit! If it works let us know!

[Scott Hudnall]

I'll be starting the project soon.

I am using a classic valve with a "Reactor Valve" on/off, which does seem to require a little less weight on the trigger pull. Also has the shocktech black back on the valve, has the 8 hole mod. Don't know if this will help, but thought I'd mention it.

I plan on putting the LPR on the vertical ASA (like the Electrician's), and using Clippard parts for the rest.

All parts are ordered, should be here in 2 or 3 days.

Putting the pneumatics into an Intelliframe. Not 100% sure about the specific link to activate the 3way yet. Will have to work with it.


Whatever happens, I want a clean, professional look, not a hack job. Been impressed with some of the pics and stuff gathered here on AO.