Finished my Pnuematic Trigger Frame...

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  • wanna-b-ballin'
    Pump Player
    • Jan 2005
    • 1380

    #391
    i have jumped around and skipped pages throughout this thread, and the pics on the first page dont work.
    i can't figure out how everything is mounted inside the frame. i'm assuming that atleast one part is attached to the intellifeed switch mount. where is everything else mounted?
    upgrade fund: $145

    Comment

    • pimpnsince1987
      Registered User
      • Jul 2003
      • 59

      #392
      i just bough all the things needed to install the mod but i forgot all the fittings grrrrr i cant wait another week.
      68 automag
      teflon powerfeed
      lvl 10
      venturi barrel
      68 3000 nitro tank
      double trigger
      custom drop forward

      Comment

      • Webby
        Mersey Road Paintball
        • Jul 2005
        • 54

        #393
        I've completed my Pneumag recently, using the following parts

        SMAV-3 (With Spring Removed)
        MPA-3
        Hoses and Fittings
        Stock Sledgehammer Regulator

        The problem I'm having is that it isn't close to walkable, fanning is easy but besides that high ROF's are near to impossible. I'm running a Classic Valve with the Stock On/off. I've adjusted the LPR pressures a few times, to the point where it wouldn't operate and to the point where my microline blew. Right now I have it working but like I've previously said, it isn't close to walkable.

        Would putting the ULT, dropping the pressure from the LPR, and putting in a sear limit screw help make the trigger somewhat walkable?

        Thanks

        Comment

        • Shingo
          The Solar Powered Cat
          • Oct 2001
          • 335

          #394
          Originally posted by Webby
          I've completed my Pneumag recently, using the following parts

          SMAV-3 (With Spring Removed)
          MPA-3
          Hoses and Fittings
          Stock Sledgehammer Regulator

          The problem I'm having is that it isn't close to walkable, fanning is easy but besides that high ROF's are near to impossible. I'm running a Classic Valve with the Stock On/off. I've adjusted the LPR pressures a few times, to the point where it wouldn't operate and to the point where my microline blew. Right now I have it working but like I've previously said, it isn't close to walkable.

          Would putting the ULT, dropping the pressure from the LPR, and putting in a sear limit screw help make the trigger somewhat walkable?

          Thanks
          I'm having the same issues.

          My setup:
          2000 Vert MicroMag
          Classic Valve
          MSV-1
          MPA-3
          Micro Roc LPR


          Anyone have a solution for this?

          ~Shingo~

          Comment

          • sarge40
            Registered User
            • May 2005
            • 19

            #395
            Leverage is the key to this problem. If the valve is moved higher on the trigger then it will be easier to pull. I have tried the Fabco-air MSV-2 which has a lever built on it but it makes for more work putting the lever against the trigger, and a uglier finished item.

            Comment

            • Alpha
              Support our troops. <3
              • Nov 2004
              • 841

              #396
              Yeah, but classic valves with on/offs are still going to be hard.

              The classic on/off requires a few pounds of pressure. In order to compensate, you have to turn up the LPR. When you turn up the LPR, you make the trigger harder to pull (more like crisper then harder). ITs a lose lose situation.

              You really need an X-valve to get the most out of it (or any rt valve for that matter).

              ULT is also key.

              "Ask not what your country can do for you; ask what you can do for your country." -JFK

              Comment

              • IronCore
                all rusted up
                • Apr 2004
                • 142

                #397
                any of you guys tried putting a counter force like a spring to help push the trigger? just a thought

                Comment

                • Webby
                  Mersey Road Paintball
                  • Jul 2005
                  • 54

                  #398
                  I think I'm going to try removing the guts from the Air Valve, run 850psi straight into the valve, and put the ULT in. A migshift attempt at cloning the effect of an Xvalve.

                  Comment

                  • IronCore
                    all rusted up
                    • Apr 2004
                    • 142

                    #399
                    my msv-1 (fabco air) leaks when I put air in it, did I had a bad part? I read on fabco catalog that it does not fully seal but from what I read, I thought it only happens when you depress the actuating rod. I opened the valve and cleaned the inside with no success. Do I need a new one? does others have a leaky msv-1? Thanks

                    edit: nevermind I found a piece of aluminum shaving in it. Thanks

                    man this is awesome, thanks Phishphen
                    Last edited by IronCore; 10-18-2005, 11:18 PM.

                    Comment

                    • Arstron
                      fusionowners.org

                      • Mar 2005
                      • 2347

                      #400
                      Originally posted by Webby
                      I think I'm going to try removing the guts from the Air Valve, run 850psi straight into the valve, and put the ULT in. A migshift attempt at cloning the effect of an Xvalve.
                      The xvalve/rt valve still regulates the air down while the air is in the airchamber. Putting 850 psi into the dump chamber will do nothing but destroy paint.

                      Comment

                      • Massriot
                        I live for BMW's
                        • Aug 2005
                        • 25

                        #401
                        so this mod wont do much if you are using a normal (stock) valve?

                        Comment

                        • athomas
                          Of course it works-its AGD
                          • Jan 2002
                          • 8039

                          #402
                          The nominal operating pressure on the SMAV-3 is 20 oz and allows a maximum of 100psi to operate. A standard classic valve at operating pressure requires ~8lbs of force to pull the trigger. You would require an actuator 1/2" in diameter to operate the sear at 50psi and 1/3" at 75psi. As you increase the pressure the operating force of the SMAV-3 also increases, so the object is to keep the operating pressure as low as possible.

                          A retro valve on-off requires only 4lbs of force to actuate and will work with a classic valve. This would reduce the actuator size to below 1/3" for 50psi and ~1/4" at 75 psi. This is more manageable than putting a ULT in a classic valve and negates having to buy a retro valve to operate a pneumag.
                          Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

                          Comment

                          • Massriot
                            I live for BMW's
                            • Aug 2005
                            • 25

                            #403
                            Originally posted by athomas
                            The nominal operating pressure on the SMAV-3 is 20 oz and allows a maximum of 100psi to operate. A standard classic valve at operating pressure requires ~8lbs of force to pull the trigger. You would require an actuator 1/2" in diameter to operate the sear at 50psi and 1/3" at 75psi. As you increase the pressure the operating force of the SMAV-3 also increases, so the object is to keep the operating pressure as low as possible.

                            A retro valve on-off requires only 4lbs of force to actuate and will work with a classic valve. This would reduce the actuator size to below 1/3" for 50psi and ~1/4" at 75 psi. This is more manageable than putting a ULT in a classic valve and negates having to buy a retro valve to operate a pneumag.
                            so you can have a nice pneu-mag with a classic valve?
                            cool.
                            can you make a list of the stuff I will need(for a classic valve) and pm it to me?
                            I dont have a mag yet... but when I get one I would sure like to do this.

                            Comment

                            • f-dawg
                              Registered User
                              • Mar 2004
                              • 123

                              #404
                              links dont work, could you send them to my email or fix them? [email protected] Thanks.

                              Comment

                              • CAPTINSANE
                                Registered User
                                • May 2005
                                • 21

                                #405
                                alternative LPR's

                                Has anyone looked at the smart parts regs. Apparently SP make a smaller front block type reg than Palmers...retails for more but is smaler...any opinions.

                                Also...how important is consistency with the pneumag...i would guess that consistency is not a big issue, therefore the sp reg (being less consistent than palmers) would be a better go...espescially as i want to fit this mod into my intelli

                                I rang MacDev here in Australia. THey have old Sonic Cocker front regs: they are unbalanced regs so for those with adjustable regs on your tanks..the more input, the less output (werd??? yeah i agree but that's what the techy had to say ).

                                Sonic Cocker LPR Specs:

                                60mm length
                                can probably cut 5-6mm off the threads
                                20 mm diameter (approx)
                                $130 AUD + GST

                                just have to import the MSV-1 and chose a reg and this mod is mine....
                                yeah baby

                                and trust brass eagle to bring out this mod for freakin spyders sure you would

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