Finished my Pnuematic Trigger Frame...

[phishphen]

Let me be the 1st to post a problem. My gun is slow.

the pneumatics wont recharge fast at all. The gun keeps up and I'm pretty sure it's not the ram. Even w/ the body off it does it, so I know it's not a pinched hose. Any ideas? The ram stays back for a long time and, if I remember correctly, it leaks?

with mine, i found that the LPR was slowly backing out, thus the pressure was going down.....and the pnuematics really slowed down....you had this thing working correctly before, something has changed since then. probably cuz of the high vibrations caused by high ROF's, someting has come loose or worn.......good luck

[Bossman]

Yep, Played at Osceola paintball field today with the Pneumo-mag.....This thing owns!!! No misfires, awsome light trigger, really an attention getter! Had no problems all day except for the level X getting twitchy, and my EVO no being able to keep up.(P.S. level X really slows down the rate of fire on a classic valve.)

So, my official list of parts are....MPA-3 actuator, MSV-1 valve, Centerflag on\off, on a classic valve.

Luck to all builders!

[undescriptive]

Bossman - what was your efficiency like with that frame though? I'm tempted to go and do this, but not if I can't get a sort of similar (less 100 or so shots) out of my tank...

[Bossman]

I only shot about a thousand rounds the whole day. As far as air consumption.....I filled my 3000psi tank everytime It got to 2000psi, so I dont have a direct reference. But you will get a lot more than 100 shots off a 3000 68ci tank. I'm kinda thinking 500? with this mod + Level X.

That being said....I KNOW the MSV-1 is more efficiant than the SMAV-3, why? I don't know, maybe It's the way I have mine setup, maybe it's just a nicer valve.

Good luck.

[undescriptive]

I think you misread me on that one bossman

I meant if I usually get 1000 out of my tank(ish) and if I got 900 or so with the pnumod, then I wouldn't mind so much...

I used to get 500-550 out of a 45/3k tank with lvl7

so, if you can use that as a reference I'd be appriciative!

cheers

[kylyo123456]

What about eblade

I have no idea how an eblade works, but I was sitting in church and started thinking...could an eblade work with this? If the front block thing was mounted up front and the eblade grip was attached to the rail is there a way that the front pnuematics could be connected to the lifter thing that actuates the mags on/off valve.
That would be awesome

[Duck Hunt]

It would be pointless. If you had read the thread you'd realize that Autococker parts aren't designed for this. PLUS, these are completely mechanical mods, Joni and Trains are Bad have already done electric mods to their mags which yielded better results than Eblade electrics.

Keep cocker parts, on cockers

Sean

[noahyay]

i think he wants the permormance of an eblade on a mag

you could but it would bre really hard

take out the solenoid and see what you would have to do to make it hit the sear, but this is not pnuematic

[phishphen]

update

ok people, i know it's been awhile since i told you all that i would be puttin up a step by step , just keep hangin tight, im almost done wit another mod that im documenting as i go along......ETA, im guessing to be this coming weekend, 4/9/05......

[Lurker27]

A quick note on efficiency: LVL7 and replacing some O-rings, particularly, the on/off, with X-rings , helps.

Also, can't you make a Faux-ULT by shaving down the stem of the on/off, allowing lower pressures to the sear ram?

["the FitZ"]

alright guys I think I figured out what the problem was. My 3way pushrod was getting stuck in a worn down place in the trigger. I guess after runnig about a case through it the friction of metal caused some wear on my trigger. I've got it working relatively good now but I still need to move back the mpa-3 further into the frame. It's a little to close and occasionally shortstrokes.

And duck hunt, I don't know what happened to the pics b/c they are crystal clear on my end. My camera is a sony 5 megapxl and I didn't even have it zoomed so maybe something was lost in the email? Do you have any idea what could have happened?

[phishphen]

New Mod

i have finally finished a new mod, PHISHMAG v2.0........this version is DEFINATELY a step up from the previous version......take a looks see ......

Picture #1

Picture #2

i'll make a new thread on the details of this bad boy, how i put it together, more pictures, a few vids, and how to annodize if ya'll are interested.....

[NigelF]

i'll make a new thread on the details of this bad boy, how i put it together, more pictures, a few vids, and how to annodize if ya'll are interested.....

of course we're interested. The annodizing doesnt interest me as much as what what kind of changes you made from your first pnue-frame work, and what sorts of operational differences they have yielded.


Nigel F

[SlartyBartFast]

i have finally finished a new mod, PHISHMAG v2.0........this version is DEFINATELY a step up from the previous version......take a looks see ......

Picture #1

Picture #2

i'll make a new thread on the details of this bad boy, how i put it together, more pictures, a few vids, and how to annodize if ya'll are interested.....

Well, YA. Of course we want more pics.

Quite honestly, those two pictures are USELESS as information regarding the pneumatic mod.

We need pics of the internals!

[ShadowNife]

^ what he said. internal. pics. now That being said , cant tell its pneumatic from the outside.

if you can provide us with step by step instructions with a video we'll all you. If not we all .

oh ya question. I know you need to basically seperate the air source to have one going into the microrock and the other actually going through the valve and all that. How exactly do you achieve this...? I read somewhere in this thread you use T-split fittings, but does that affect how much air goes into each? Just needed to clarify that and where exactly would you split the air source. The ASA or the gas through grip or where?

And just a clarification, are the microline listed in the parts list the same as the line used on the cocker 3-way(4-way) or the microline used in say a microline fitting, the smaller version of a macroline. Or are they the same and I'm being delusional?

suggestion when you start making the tutorial. Use simulation diagrams. Of course have actual photos of the work, but sometimes having say a 3-d rendering or just a simple drawing of where the pieces go helps a bunch when the real thing occasionally gets cluttered and hard to tell what is what. That way you can also label the parts haha.

random smiley: