Finished my Pnuematic Trigger Frame...

[ultralight]

first off i'd like to say: amazing work and research! your highschool teachers would be proud.
i think that it's very cool that regular players are conceiving, designing and building setups to improve the performance of your markers.

a while back i thought i saw someone mention a pneumatic pump kit. i found this rather interesting and sketched up a quick drawing in paint. this is just one possibility.
i wonder if one of you guys has enough extra parts lying around (extra 3 way) to give this design a shot for testing purposes. if not, could anyone tell me if this would even work and/or if it would be pump class legal?

http://img207.exs.cx/gal.php?g=pneupump5tb.png

this is the link to the gallery, click on the thumbnail to get the full size image.

thanks.

[Duck Hunt]

http://www.paintball-workshop.info/PICT0007.MOV

Small update, thanks Big n' Slo! Click on it

Sean

[Duck Hunt]

Some custom shop made a Sniper Pneumatic assisted pump. It clearly states in the stock class play rules book only non assisted pump guns.

Sean

EDIT - FOUND IT, done by Paintball Max, they do pump kit milling for mags too I believe:

http://www.paintballmaxx.com/main/services/custom/sho/

[NoForts4Me]

Link isn't working for me...

[Duck Hunt]

Try this...

http://rapidshare.de/files/941512/PICT0007.MOV.html

Sean

[ultralight]

it's not a pneumatically assisted pump.
you havre to manually work the pump to charge the 3 way behind the trigger in order to make it work. it's a manual pump with a pneumatic trigger.
basically it's using excessive technology to take a step backwards, but if you can't find a mag pump kit then you can do this.

[Dark_mag45]

k i got everything except how does the valve get triped????? is it the ram hits that pin thing cause thats what it looked like in the vid
if this is so do you have to mod the pin thingy

[Duck Hunt]

Check the first post of the thread Dark Mag, it should be very clear in the pics The ram or actuator pushes back on the sear leg just like the trigger rod does.

Sean

[Big'n slo]

Cool little vid Sean!
I assume those barbs made it in my ultra special hi-tech packaging technique?

[BigEvil]

To all the AO Naysayers

To everyone who has been griping about AO going down hill:

PLEASE READ THIS THREAD!

This is the essence of what AO is about.
Keep up the good work guys. Some of this stuff is simply amazing.

["the FitZ"]

Yea the parts I ended up using were the clippard smav-3 and the mpa-3. I then grinded the threads off a 6mm bolt and filed it smooth to use as a plunger. My trigger now is very short and, w/ the ULT, very very light. easily walkable too. I tinkered w/ the stops a little and was able to take alot off the front portion of the pull. I doubt it is a 1/16'' but maybe close. Like maybe a little less. I screwed the stops in till it either leaked or didn't fire then backed them out by 1/4 to 1/2 turn. W/ the grips on It looks no different from stock at all. Phish does your setup include the ULT? b/c it makes it hella lighter than stock on/off. O and the screw into the back of the frame to limit sear travel is VERY important. w/o it the front of the sear smashes down on the 3-way causing the hoses to break lose. I don't know how to host pics maybe I can send them to someone?

[phishphen]

...Phish does your setup include the ULT? ...

no, i kept the stock on/off......

[Duck Hunt]

Fitz email them too me, whenever my busy Aye-SS gets around to it I plan on putting up all you guys' projects on my site:

[email protected]

http://www.paintball-workshop.info

Sean

[Big'n slo]

Ok,
Who can think of the best way to lengthen the sear leg a little?

Another .25" and I'd be set.

I'm thinking clamp on style

Like this -[I] (top view)

First Dash = set screw
[ ] = Extention
I= sear leg

[SlartyBartFast]

Who can think of the best way to lengthen the sear leg a little?

Hmm. Given the specification, lengthen the measurements of the leg and have a metal shop make one?

The sear was part of the slug body CAD file originally (and accidentally) posted and made public by Tom. From that file, the only thing you don't have to make an exact copy of the sear is the thickness of the bushing and the materials used.

I'd look at the threads about relocating the trigger rod attachment point to judge the difficulty of drilling and modifying a current sear.