wow, that is nice. How'd you learn how to work with that kind of stuff? What do you do for a living. You should start making those and sell them to us on AO. We really need something like this since the HAir project took a dump and Pro-Teams might sue everyone.
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is that a stock am/mm sear in internals picture?
it looks like the leg is a bit longer than the leg on mine...
it looks a lot like the my sear except there seems to be more meat below the clevis hole...
sorry if i overlooked this info somewhereTheDuelist "The problem is that Tom has developed the VW Beetle of the paintball industry. It's almost too good to change and far too reliable."Comment
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Unless I completely misread this thread, there is no solenoid...???
My feedback thread
AIM-bertmcmahan
My email:[email protected]
Good traders: richie,Roguefactor,moufo48,845,brtncstm160,vf-xx
Mags don't shoot darts... they shoot nails.
I used to be bertmcmahan, that I did.Comment
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This may sound like a dumb question but how is the 3-way activated?Comment
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If you noticed that, you are on the right track to making this modOriginally posted by Jerhew
Looking at EVERY detail in the pictures is a good thing to do.....a picture is worth a thousand words...
Yes ,i believe that is a am/mm sear and Yes it is longer/ "more meat below the clevis hole". Why it is longer, i do not know. This sear came wit the gun when i bought it off ebay. But the extra length doesn't effect this mod that much....
Baller:
3-way is activated by the trigger where the saftey is usually at....Comment
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question for ya...............
Alright I have been watching your thread and "E's" thread for a while.I managed to score some parts at a local surplus shop.I got 7 mpa-3'sa mav2 and ended up with a mav-3.The mav-3 I guess is the brother to the SMAV-3 except the exhaust comes out through the hollow actuator pin instead of the port behind the outlet.In your opinion,since you guys already have been through the pain of research,do you see a reason why this would not work?I have set it up on a bench and put 80 psi through it and it extends and retracts as fast as I can push the pin.As far as I can tell,they are close to the same size.I plan on putting it into an Intelli as soon as I get a chance to get started.I still have to get some hose an fittings.I do appreciate all the hard work you done and then posting it for us to see.Thanks guys,RichieTAC-ONE Camomag,Retro Valve w/LVL-10,milled RT-Pro rail,E-mag battery pack,KAPP stubby dropzone,CP on/off, 16" Stiffi and it's bewy,bewy qwiet
Richie's feedback
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Wassupstranger:
Nice! can you get pictures up? with that 3-way i was concerned bout how big it was compared to the SMAV-3.....from your setup, do you still have plenty of room for the MPA-3?
And where do you plan to put the MPA-3, directly behind the 3-way, on top, or on bottom?
Richie:
the only thing i can see wit the mav-3 is that actuation force is more, and stem travel is more.
using it MIGHT mean a little more trigger travel and more force...... let us know how it turns out....Comment
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wassupstranger67
Did you buy the valve from Fabco-air or one of its distributors?Comment
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looks good, that frame hasa lot of room
my y frame is .54" wide for the mpa 3
.18" where the 3 way goes
and .79" deep
who can find a smaller/better actuatorrt pro w/ lvlx etc.
custom milled out y frame
empire barrel kit
ult
custom 15 degree
custom milled rail
cut ule body
steel hose with QD's
custom welded drop
90/45 nitro duck x-stream
halo tsa w/ custom paint job
soon to get warp
custom palmer microrock front grip for future trigger for ^
http://www.noahkool.comComment
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Here's a post from earlier in this thread.....Seems to be a bit shorter than the MPA-3. Hope this helps.Originally posted by SlartyBartFastWhy not one of these instead of the Clippard actuator?
No need to manufacture a rod/plunger.
P1G cartridge cylinder:
http://www.parker.com/frameless/defa...hID=&PSID=6917Comment
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what are these measurements? I thought that frame was .75" wide at the thickest part?Originally posted by noahyay
that's where you're gonna put the actuator.
Wassup- looks like that sucker takes up alot of room. I wonder if it can be modified. perhaps take it apart, see if there's extra metal that could be eliminated. also if you can take it apart, you might be able to open up that exhaust hole a bit, without damaging anything.
what size is the exhaust hole? I can do some flow calcs to see what the flow rate of it is.
if it's a .055" hole or better, my guess is that you won't need an qev, if you keep the hose to the actuator short.
looks like the input to cylinder flow is plenty high.~E~Comment
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Hey E! congrat's on your baby!Comment
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