do pnuematics still ahve the reactivity of stock rt's?
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embargo backwards = o grab me
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Looking really good guys!
Just thinking off the top of my head, but.....
Would it be possible to rig a MSV-2A from fabco-air (the one with the roller lever) so that it was mounted similar to the electric switch in an intelliframe?
It might be possible to create a pneumatic trigger that behaved in the same manner as the E-Mag hybrid mode. Short travel to activate the 3-way and fire the marker in pneumatic mode, longer travel and direct action onthe trigger rod to fire in 'normal' mode.
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Probably, BUT, it wouldn't be legal anywhere.
Theres a Fabco Air dealer the next state over that carries these 3 way BUT, to my disadvantage, they are an hour and 15 minutes away, and they don't ship things under 25 bucks
Sean
AGD Did someone call me?
You should go to each gun manufacturers forum or call them up. Ask the OWNER of the company why his gun is better. When you get your answers come back here and tell us what they said.
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Originally posted by SlartyBartFastLooking really good guys!
Just thinking off the top of my head, but.....
Would it be possible to rig a MSV-2A from fabco-air (the one with the roller lever) so that it was mounted similar to the electric switch in an intelliframe?
It might be possible to create a pneumatic trigger that behaved in the same manner as the E-Mag hybrid mode. Short travel to activate the 3-way and fire the marker in pneumatic mode, longer travel and direct action onthe trigger rod to fire in 'normal' mode.
THAT sounds pretty interesting...hmmmmm..........it might require LESS milling of the frame too............i'll think about that more........nice idea SLARTY......Comment
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I have four MSV-1's on the way.
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I wonder if there are any left for me???
lol
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As soon as I get my lathe degreased I'm gonna try to turn myself one- anyone know what a good bore would be?
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3/8 - 1/2Comment
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Share the love Stranger!
Sean
AGD Did someone call me?
You should go to each gun manufacturers forum or call them up. Ask the OWNER of the company why his gun is better. When you get your answers come back here and tell us what they said.
You should buy my gun because I have 5000 posts that say I care.
AGD
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Just to add to the multitude of possible alternatives, Bimba has a Reverse Single-Acting cylinder.
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Or, from the thread started by Scatterplot about a micro regulator:
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That stroke = .156" do you think thats enough range of motion to trip the sear? I think E said somewhere that you need around 3mm(.118") for the sear to trip, so maybe this would be enough.
I will tell you this....the valve your talking about is longer than my cut-down MPA-3.(.975")
As you can see in the pic, I relocated the incoming air line to the side to shorten it up some more.....Note: this MPA-3 has not had the threads cut off yet, that's why it looks a little long.
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nice bossman, that's how mine was in pnuematic form, out the bottom.
just for clarification, the MSV valve is a fabco model Jack and Coke. it's not a clippard part.
it's another 3-way that is possible for this mod.
I found that the minimum sear movement needed for the sear to clear the bolt, and measured at the on/off pin, is .131"
the actual minimum needed stroke of your actuator, depends on how far away it is from the pivot point. I recommend putting the center line of the actuator inline with the hole in the sear where the trigger rod clevis would normally be.
it's efficient with air consumption and produces not extra bolt wear, because it creates the force in the same place same trigger rod did.
I don't recommend going too crazy with bore size. too big or too small. too big and you will waste air. who cares right? it's not much. but as your bore gets larger, the needed pressure goes down to get the same force.(not to mention, some valves don't seal at really low pressures) the flow rate goes down. so now you need more and your flow rate is lower. this equal more time to function. the whole point of this mod is to wring out more of the potential of the gun. in other words easier to maintain high ROF's.
also don't put too much extra force on the sear, or let it travel too far.
give it just enough pressure to do the job, and then a bit for reliability. don't make it so the actuator pulverizes the sear. you'll just wear it out and waste air doing it.
if it travels too far, it will slam into the bottom of the on/off and deform the pin hole over time.~E~Comment
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