Finished my Pnuematic Trigger Frame...

[undescriptive]

anyone have any idea about parts in the UK?

I'm itching to have a play!!

[phishphen]

Bossman:

That pic is right on the money!!!!! So much info in that one pic. MUCH THANKS!!!
for tapping the 3-56 barb, heres a TRICK:

use a 4-40 tap, i know its the wrong one, But, turn the tap 1 maybe max 2 turns into the hole and you'll find the barb threads right in. Red loctite it in and be sure not to over torque it cuz you could shear off the barb. It's a ghetto solution, but hey, it worked for me :)

[Bossman]

Rock on! I've got 4-40's! Thank's man.

[Jack & Coke]

too bad PPS doesn't make a high quality "Mini Rock" combo ASA/LPR like this one from Tippmann:



Along with being an easier task of routing the LPR hose, IMO, it would also be a much clearner setup than having to run the LPR off the side of the gun:



or in front (i kinda like this look though...):


(this route probably requires you to mill the rail...)

[SlartyBartFast]

too bad PPS doesn't make a high quality "Mini Rock" combo ASA/LPR like this one from Tippmann:

Would be easy to do. Just need to know the dimensions of the Rock internals.

Then, mill a new housing that allows you to bolt to the grip frame or use a rail and provides a LP output that can be used by the internals and a HP output that provides direct tank regulator pressure to the AIR valve.

[ScatterPlot]

Would be easy to do. Just need to know the dimensions of the Rock internals.

Then, mill a new housing that allows you to bolt to the grip frame or use a rail and provides a HP output that can be used by the internals and a HP output that provides direct tank regulator pressure to the AIR valve.

You mean LP for internals, right?

[Wassupstranger67]

I found a 3-56 tap at a tool store today. It was like $2-$3 bucks!!

[SlartyBartFast]

You mean LP for internals, right?

Yup. I edited my post.

[Fritz1970]

Use of RT Classic Rail

Wassupstranger: Saw that you were looking to put a MicroRock on a 15 Deg. ASA and then run hose into the rail; have you considered using an RT Classic Rail that already has milled air passages? You'd have to get rail bushing for the field strip screw, and find a way to block the air passage to the strip screw area (a dab of JB weld should do it, supported by the rail bushing) that used to go to the old banjo bolt.

Wanted to say thank you to you, the Electrician, Bossman, phishphen and all of you others out there who have spent the time in thinking, testing, getting you fingers pinched and assembling this concept. Now I have to convince my wife that I REALLY need all these parts and a new X-Valve . . .

Fritz1970

[Big'n slo]

After reading all these posts and threads I think I'm going to give this a go also.

And hopefully to add something useful to this thread.
Check out page 900 of the online McMaster-Carr catalog, it looks like they carry the parker air cylinder that Slarty posted.

Keep up the great work guys
Gotta love "The Workshop"

[Bossman]

Can you say international think tank!

Nice catch Big'n slo

Next week we start on the cure for cancer.....

[rkjunior303]

wow great thread guys!

once you figure out the best way to get this created, with the best parts, you should consolidate it into a 'how-to' thread for a sticky :)

[richie]

Well here's mine..........

Figured I'd try an intelliframe.Yeah I know the trigger is kinda ghetto but it zings! The trigger rod shows on it because this intelli I modified a while back for my vm.That's why the metal is gone behind the trigger.When I'm done it will go back on the vm and my other intell will reap the benefits of this experiment.The other one will have a blade trigger instead of the one in the pic.Parts are basically the same as phish's except I am using a mav-3 instead of a smav-3.The exhaust comes out of the trigger rod because it is hollow.(you can make a mav-3 out of a mav-2 by opening up the hollow trigger rod)I had to take a spare rod and used some hardening heatshrink to extend the trigger rod.I still have to shorten the trigger rod, get all my set screws in place and clean up the whole installation.It works now off of 50 psi air I have coming out of my air compressor with the regulator on it turned down.I made an adapter to use on the bench.My palmer mini rock will be here thursday.Thanks Phishphen and E(and the rest of you tinkerers) for the inspiration.Where would we be if we left stuff alone?

[Duck Hunt]

Awesome richie!! How's the pull length on the MAV-3?? I remember Clippard saying around 1/8th an inch?

We need a video now you know...

What do you think your top cycle per second is?

Keep us updated.

Sean

Forgot to ask, did you use the same actuator? (MPA-3) it looks like you didn't need to do any hard milling or grinding to put it in there if you did....

I guess we need internal pics too hehehe

[richie]

well

I do not know what the top cycle speed is as I suck at walking the trigger(still need the blade on it also).The rod movement actually is short because there is movement before the hollow rod makes contact with the schraeder style pin inside.I took the spring out and it is really light.I had the o-ring out of the tip and man it was touchy but it leaked out the front before it closed.I'll try to figure out how to get a video with my digital cam but it will be a while.It took me three days to get this far.The next one I do will be a lot cleaner than this one,trust me.It also helps that the rail is milled.This gives you a little more room to play with as far as hoses and fittings.I plan on mounting the reg in a set of scope rings on the right side.I also was wondering how it would work by hooking a 12 gram changer or a 4 oz tank(under the barrel,grenade launcher style ) straight into the reg so you have two seprate air sources.Just a thought.