An idea about the MPA-3 plunger......
I have some 1\4 inch delrin that Im going to thread and screw into the plunger, then I'm gonna take a stainless screw, machine it to have a round, flat head and screw that into the top.
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I have some 1\4 inch delrin that Im going to thread and screw into the plunger, then I'm gonna take a stainless screw, machine it to have a round, flat head and screw that into the top. -
Why not one of these instead of the Clippard actuator?
No need to manufacture a rod/plunger.
P1G cartridge cylinder:
http://www.parker.com/frameless/defa...hID=&PSID=6917Comment
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Why not just thread the end of a trigger rod directly into the piston?Originally posted by Bossman
Delrin may not be strong enough...Comment
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That would make disassembly kinda hard. I think the delrin would be more than strong enough, plus, look at the pic, I have a stainless screw that would impact the sear, no wear there.Comment
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n00bs and their lazy minds wanting free stuff...Originally posted by zazzoo
phishphen, u should sell the instructions on how to put this mod together to anyone that's not imaginative enough to figure it out for themselves
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"AGD is good because 2/3 of their name is AGG :)" - DiRtY HiPpYComment
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There's really nothing to figure out, It all in black and white...and some green. LOL
If people would just read the posts, The Electrician has awsome STEP BY STEP instructions for everything he's done. I knew nothing about pneumatics when I started reading his posts, now I know enough to expand on the things were doing now, and maybe even come up with a few original ideas.
Big sorry to Phishphen, I know I keep mentioning E in your thread....It's just he deserves a lot of credit for this whole thing....Love ya!Comment
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Bossman:Originally posted by Bossman
It's all good brotha., i dont mind at all. I was just like you, ZERO knowlegde in pnuematics until ~E~'s posts....
Bart:
if you look really close at the internal pics you can see a portion of the piston. Actually it is VERY similar to what BOSSMAN drew up. The cool thing is, my little piston cost less than 2 bucks and takes less than 2 minutes to make
. the screw is not stainless (i dont think) but i could have easily got one, but i wanna minimize cost....
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Yes, disassembly would be slightly harder....Originally posted by Bossman
I was more wondering about the strength of the delrin is you were to thread the trigger rod dircetly, not for your proposed design.
Any thoughts on the cartridge cylinder from Parker?Comment
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The first piston I made was an old guitar tuning peg I cut up with a dremel! It fit the opening of the MPA-3 perfect, Its's what I still use to test everything.Comment
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Sound Bit
i added a sound bit to the 1st post if you are interested in analyzing. It's a .wav file. I went ahead and analyzed it and i determined that the max CPS I can acheive right now is 14CPS, but that is only for a short period of time. It seems to me that i can dwell around 10-11CPS pretty good, .....
UP^Comment
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cool guys...good work to phishphen, bossman and the electrician...
how did each of you attach the parts inside your frames?TheDuelist "The problem is that Tom has developed the VW Beetle of the paintball industry. It's almost too good to change and far too reliable."Comment
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slarty- yeah that would work great. from what I can see in the pdf file, the 10mm bore, with a 5mm stroke length would be 20.5mm long and about 15 mm in diameter. so the bore would be just a hair bigger, the diameter a hair bigger, but the length is shorter than the mpa-3.
that would probably drop in without much modification at all. it would probably work absolutely great.
I don't have an account with parker though. if you had a local distributor that carried them, you'd be in business.
parker makes good stuff.excellent find slarty.
I wouldn't recommend attaching the sear to the actuator. it just makes it harder to assemble/disassemble and adds unnecessary work to the project. the sear returns itself, and so does the actuator, so ne need to connect them, it makes for an easy set-up to keep them separate. but you can do whatever you want really. it's all personal preference. it would still work fine.
I think the real key to that part of the set-up is to make sure that at rest, the actuator piston sist against the sear. you don't want it to have to move at all before it gets to the sear to push it back. having a gap here is what causes accelerated wear on the acuator piston.
but remember you DO NOT want to impede the forward movement of the sear when it resets itself. that will cause bolt wear like MAD.
figure out how far forward the sear will come and bring the actuator back to meet it and secure it in place. if you do it like this, you could probably get away with using delrin. my stainless piston probably has over 40,000 cycles on it and it has nothing but a shiny spot on it where it's been making contact with the sear.~E~Comment
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K i'm starting to get this but what is a QEV and I can't find a PG-101 on ClippardComment
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From what I can tell you got bout 16 Bps in there
Do you think you could keep firing at top pace for like 1 and 1/2 secs.
Because you would always start your cycle to late
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i'm sure i could, but i gotta practice moreOriginally posted by PattyGFrom what I can tell you got bout 16 Bps in there
Do you think you could keep firing at top pace for like 1 and 1/2 secs.
Because you would always start your cycle to late
im still a noob
my fingers get tired (pretty weak, huh?), thus i get out of rythm and BPS goes down.....but, practice makes perfect (also some more fine tuning of the mod )
QEV=Quick Exhaust Valve
@www.clippard.com, do a search for "pg-101", typed exactly like dat.....Comment
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