ALL about the WARP-FEED

[JT2002]

why not just use both batts?

[Comyz]

Hey all. Ive got an ebladed cocker and i found that the cable that connects the new 3 way and the board only has a + voltage when the trigger is pulled (aprox 1-3v). Anyway i figured i can probly set my warp feed up so that it spins when it recieves this + voltage. Only thing is it wont work, i even tried using a batery to see if it would detect that. I Currently have the jumper set to the centre one (positive) only.

[Star_Base_CGI]

I swear Tom does not like Autockers.

Should he try the - setting?

[JT2002]

well first thing, are you saying you only have one wire coming from teh cocker to the warp? and only one connection? i think you might need there to be 2 connections, in order to complete teh circuit, and i think the prob is that you will need to find some wire or something with a negative lead to try it on. in other words i mean something like, go to radio shack if u dont ahve it, and get a wire that hase 1 end or w/e of teh plug to fit in the warp. then take each of the 2 wires, figure out which is pos and neg, and then they need to be wired to the cocker. i think it can be done but wont be easy

[Comyz]

Its 2 wires, i already tested for which is neg and pos. Heres a pic:

[JT2002]

now you are connecting this intellifeed to your warp via a mini jack plug correct?

[Comyz]

well for the moment its not in a jack plug but it shouldnt matter as all the jack plug does it create a plug that bridges the circuit

[JT2002]

ok, well i just thought it would be easier to work with if its in the jack so all u do is plug it in and see. have u used a voltmeter to make sure that all the wires coming from the cocker are the correct ones and supplying enough current to signal the warp?

btw anyone know teh needed current for the warp to sense the signal? try calling agd i guess

[zabbu]

Alright a question for you then =)

I am interested in getting a warp because i want to lower my profile. Some times those pesky front players chase me out of my back stand up and i need to hide
what i need to know is as follows.
1) does anyone make a larger bottom plate for the warp?
it will not fit with out me moving my tank to the side.
2) how can i make it feed 20+bps?
is that the 12vmod? Noise is not realy a problem, i am a loud mouth and every one knows where i am anyway.
3) is there an adapter for vert feed NON removable feed neck markers?
thank you
brandon

[JT2002]

1) no that i know of, you sure it cant fit if u take the plate, slide it back and out to its farthest point AND move the warp out to its farthest point?
2) i believe it already feeds 20bps or close to it just as 9v. what i do HIGHLY suggest is to put in an on/off switch, and do bigcell mod, basically just wire 2 good heavy duty bat clips in there in parallel to increas mah i think it is and keep voltage the same. the increased mah will be more than enough so that as the warp spins for several seconds, it maintains its speed rather than slows down because of the lower mah one 9v batt gives.
3) i dont think there is any company made one. what gun u using? also how big is your tank? and im sure you can make a nice looking one out of pvc, and spray paint it to match the gun or sometin. basically just get a size tube that fits in teh feed neck, but is wide open enought for the balls to flow through freely.

[zabbu]

Tank size

its an 88/45 stubby and NO it wont fit =)
heck it wont fit with my 68 3k
i have tried and tried, all that happens is i get frustrated. if i owned a drill press or a welding machine i would try to build one, but i dont.
Warp 9v only feeds approx 16 tops. i know this because i have checked with 3 of them, and fed them all off of halob's
unfortunately i can hit approx 20 give or take some adrenaline<sp>
i shoot a viking, and i dont realy feel like ghetto'ing one together. and i am sure as heck not cutting my feed neck apart.
thank you
brandon

[JT2002]

ok i never said to cut up the neck. im sure u can make one that serves teh purpose enough so that the plastic doesnt really get out in the open, and it just gets covered up by 1 the feed neck and 2 the warp adapter. now are u sure ur puttin the plate on with teh smaller slots attached to the fame and the longer ones for teh warp? and that when lookin from behind the gun, the plate is pointing foward? whats your setup? u running a drop foward? or just something like a unimount or asa? i run a 68 45 with drop and it does fit just a tad tight , but it fits. can u post a pic of the gun from front, back, and sides?


shoot and i just thought, 88, im sure its freakin wide. um. how is the tank setup? so i can help figure something out

[zabbu]

hehe

hehe i know you did not say cut the feed neck, i have had that suggested to me b4 and i was just clearing the air in advance.
i dont own a digi cam, so no i cannot post pics.
its running on a KAPP 180* swivel drop.
yes the warp is put together correctly
i am currently at school and dont have internet at home so i cannot describe what it looks like.
i am quite sure that security would frown on my bringing in my viking
thank you JT for your help and speedy responses.
brandon

[JT2002]

what do u mean a 180* swivel drop, u mean a drop zone 2 or 3 or somethin? i dont think thers such a kapp drop called
swivel drop

[Star_Base_CGI]

If you want 20 BPS sustained you need to put a Halo on top of your warp feed. Halo B is the one that everyone says is faster. Its belt driven.

My warp is pretty quite. It makes a humming sound.