IONized 'Mag Pneu-frame?

[Loco_AEXY]

Kory -
The trigger return will likely be magnets. however, a light spring may also do the trick. placement of the magnets (or spring) has yet to be decided.

If your looking for ideas on where to place the magnets I have a suggestion (though you may have already thought of this). I did a similar mod to one of those Logic Frames and what I found worked well was to simply remove the trigger, JB Weld a Rare Earth Magnet (www.kjmagnetics.com - great source and pretty cheep) on top of the little lip at the top of the trigger (being careful it will fit freely in the space in the frame) and then I put the other magnet (oriented to attract the one on the trigger) in the rail right above it. I used a ULE rail and so there was a big space to palce the amgnet but a recess could be drilled as well in the bottom of a solid rail. The end result was a very nice trigger feel. Just an idea in case you hadn't thoguht of it.

[FinchMan]

If your looking for ideas on where to place the magnets I have a suggestion (though you may have already thought of this). I did a similar mod to one of those Logic Frames and what I found worked well was to simply remove the trigger, JB Weld a Rare Earth Magnet (www.kjmagnetics.com - great source and pretty cheep) on top of the little lip at the top of the trigger (being careful it will fit freely in the space in the frame) and then I put the other magnet (oriented to attract the one on the trigger) in the rail right above it. I used a ULE rail and so there was a big space to palce the amgnet but a recess could be drilled as well in the bottom of a solid rail. The end result was a very nice trigger feel. Just an idea in case you hadn't thoguht of it.

that is pretty good, I think normally people use opposing magnets but what you say is pretty cool.

Only problem I can see (I really have no experience to if it would make any real difference) with using attracting magnets is that the magnetic field would get stronger the closer the trigger is to reset, instead being strongest at the back of the trigger pull.

This is because the magnetic fields' attraction/repulsion isn't linear. It's 1/d^2 where d = distance between the two magnets.

does that make sense to anyone

again, I don't know if there is any real difference when applied.

[Scott Hudnall]

Loco - that was pretty much what I was thinking for the magnet trigger return, incorporating the top "tip" of the trigger and using the rail for the opposing magnet for return. Good thinking....

Regarding the previous question about the safety, it's a Logic factory install, using an AGD safety. Counter sink looks deep because it is.....this frame is significantly wider than the stock one.

Sorry, no new pics tonight. Should have time in a few days to continue the mods and will post pics then.

and BigEvil...thanks for the PM and ideas. Don't forget to post about your MPA-3 Sear rod ideas and/or parts you had PM'd me about earlier.

[RoamingStorm]

Idea!! what about that ion membrane upgrade?!

[FinchMan]

Idea!! what about that ion membrane upgrade?!

I figure he'd worry about that once he got everything in and there was a complete product to be "upgraded."

But still, good point.

[RoamingStorm]

well as much as id love to do this upgrade and follow through the footsteps, my mag is now gone. Ill have another one going by mid summer probably

[Scott Hudnall]

membrane is on the agenda....just down the road a bit. excellent idea. i had looked at the DYE membranes a few months back also.

[afortuna]

membrane is on the agenda....just down the road a bit. excellent idea. i had looked at the DYE membranes a few months back also.

You may want to go with the t-board on this project. Much more versatile and no soldering needed for the membrane mod.

[Green_kat]

How have you secured the MPA-3 in the frame? Are you just putting a cut down sear rod inside the cylinder of the MPA-3? How does the length of the throw of the MPA compare with the actuation distance of the MPA? do you think that might cause bolt chipping like in the hyperframe?

[Scott Hudnall]

I've got some of the mods done, Green K, but haven' t got it all worked out yet.

I' ve been very busy with "life" in general lately....will be devoting more time to it this weekend. Hopefully more pics then.

I plan on securing the MPA3 with a set screw.

The trigger rod mod I have done is adjustable, so hopefully it will work fine. Don't know about the throw length. Have no knowledge about how the hyperframe works or bolt chipping.



Thanks.

[RoamingStorm]

so we need updates

[DoomWithAnXmag]

Board

I see two things that may work better and make for more simple operation. You were saying about putting the board upside down so the switch is higher. If you took the capacitor (never lookd that close but I am guessing thats what it is) off you could move it parallel to the board and move the board higher in the frame. Also if you took the switch off and it could be mounted on the metal tap right above it in the pictuture. That would allow a direct line from switch to trigger. Both of these would be pretty easy to do and make for a more efficent install.

[ultralight]

doom: it really does seem that the most likely way to fit it all into a smaller frame (intelli) is to desolder everything (switch, noid, capacitor) from the board. it would get pretty crazy in there, but it would be worth it.

i'm with roaming storm, WE NEED UPDATES!!

[DoomWithAnXmag]

blah

Really to do it right I would get a neutral board and copy the circuitry of the blackhart board onto it in a manner that would fit the frame.

[AnthonyDStone]

Nope!

It would work perfectly if you could fit it in the frame...

I personally think it's a great idea...however...

It's kinda like putting the engine from a chevy into a ford...

Well since fords are ****,it would be more like putting an engine from a ford into a much better,Chevy!

Tony