IONized 'Mag Pneu-frame?

[tae]

Need to see some vids!

[FinchMan]

Need to see some vids!

its not done yet. :P

lots of pics would be cool though.


if you're going to have a X-valve in it, i'd say go with the ULE.

if you're going to use an older RT-vavle (or even classic valve :P) I'd say go with the powerfeed for a sleeper look.

...but then again, a sleeper with a vert frame...

naw, go with the ULE body, that way it's easier to encorperate eyes if you decide you want them, and it would be cooler with an X-vavle and vert frame and all the good stuff.

[sgarmy]

so what other frame could be logically used for this project

ive also still been thinking maybe that the cocker frame is out of reach anyone though about an intimidator frame yet

using same ram this guy is using but with intimidator solenoid board and eyes

my only reasoning for trying this is simplicity with board placement and room for the noid and battery can the mp3 be fitted here as well to actuate the sear

[Scott Hudnall]

so what other frame could be logically used for this project

ive also still been thinking maybe that the cocker frame is out of reach anyone though about an intimidator frame yet

using same ram this guy is using but with intimidator solenoid board and eyes

my only reasoning for trying this is simplicity with board placement and room for the noid and battery can the mp3 be fitted here as well to actuate the sear

I'm not familiar with the intimidator frames, if it would bolt on, allow room for the 'mag sear, etc. Can't help you there. sorry.

Cocker frame should bolt right on the 'mag rail, but is it milled out enough to allow for the sear, MPA3, etc? I can't answer that.

BigEvil has ordered some parts to use as the sear tripping plunger, to be activated by the MPA3. I'm sure he'll be posting more on this as they are available.

[geekwarrior]

hey, get back to work scott...no more posting till your done



i can hardly wait to see your finished work, good job so far

[UltraMag527]

2nd the motion...

[FinchMan]

hey, get back to work scott...no more posting till your done



i can hardly wait to see your finished work, good job so far

no no... it's don't post without more pictures.

The iMag gonna be awesome when it's done.


....ok, ok, you can post if you want to. shiesh although it is a new weekend....

[Scott Hudnall]

You guys are too funny!

I had no time to work on it this weekend due to being out of town. I'll have time and pics this week.

Still contemplating the trigger to microswitch connection. That's the biggest hurdle, although placement in the frame is not finished yet. That will probably dictate much of it.

Thanks for the encouragement.

[Kory]

subscribing, this looks cool.
Kory

[Skoad]

So whats the problem with the microswitch? I understand it is directly on the board. Well you could get yourself a solder sucker and iron and wire up a new wire connected switch.


Where exactly is the switch going to end up in relation to the trigger and inside the frame?

[personman]

So whats the problem with the microswitch? I understand it is directly on the board. Well you could get yourself a solder sucker and iron and wire up a new wire connected switch.


Where exactly is the switch going to end up in relation to the trigger and inside the frame?

What he means is he hasnt come up with a way for the actual trigger to activate the switch.. I'm sure he was planning on desoldering it from the board anyway..

By the way this project has caught my eye... it's simple, cheap, and I'm suprised you have actually gotten it to work! I might try it sometime.. although I think I would have used the tboard, its a little cheaper I think.

I still dont quite grasp how your nylon bushing is held on to the solenoid valve.. it's just friction fit?

Anyway, great work.

[Scott Hudnall]

What he means is he hasnt come up with a way for the actual trigger to activate the switch.. I'm sure he was planning on desoldering it from the board anyway..

By the way this project has caught my eye... it's simple, cheap, and I'm suprised you have actually gotten it to work! I might try it sometime.. although I think I would have used the tboard, its a little cheaper I think.

I still dont quite grasp how your nylon bushing is held on to the solenoid valve.. it's just friction fit?

Anyway, great work.

I bought a used ION board from someone who had purchased a Blackheart from SP. $40 for a perfectly working board.

The nylon manifold I made is basically a tight friction fit. It's held up in testing, no problem, as long as the line is vented. I don't forsee any problems there.

I am planning on leaving the microswitch on the board. The problem to solve is drilling the frame, getting the angle right, manufacturing an actuating rod and making it light enough to not damage the switch, make it walkable, etc.

[Skoad]

I was going to suggest a rod like that if the board is sitting in a good spot for it. I figured you would have already thought of it

[sgarmy]

I was going to suggest a rod like that if the board is sitting in a good spot for it. I figured you would have already thought of it

what about tapping the trigger for an adjustable screw much like a trigger stop longer ofcourse but would be fully adjustable if mounted in the right spot you know in if your not hitting the switch enough out if you want it lighter

[ultralight]

can someone post a pic of the board, ram, and battery next to a frame for reference? any frame, it doesn't matter which one and the components don't need to be inside, i just want to gauge size. thanks.

sgarmy, depending on the position of the board inside the frame, i'd say tha's a great idea. even the original ion trigger has an arm extending off of it to hit the switch. that arm could easily be replaced by an adjustable screw. the only problem is that you would either need to get a really long set screw or you would have to mount a cap head screw backward so that the head activates the switch. that would be harder to adjust. especially if you're using sticky3's on an intelli (assuming that this cold even fit in an intelli).