IONized 'Mag Pneu-frame?

[geekwarrior]

is this going in the frame I sold you?

cant wait to see it, wish I was a little more techy so I could help out....good luck!

[Scott Hudnall]

Here's the progress thus far.

First, the air circuit. The manifold at the bottom of the noid is a nylon bushing that the air nipple threaded into fairly easily, cutting it's own threads. It is in there solid. I drilled the other end of the bushing with 1/4 inch bit, and it slides tightly over the bottom of the noid where the original exhaust/vent is located. easy to do. won't move....believe me. air tight. If you are worried about it moving, then put a touch of glue on before sliding it on. I'm not doing that, however.... PLEASE NOTE: while Nicad's earlier picture of his solenoid/plunger mod shows a spring needed to return the plunger, that is NOT needed in this mod. There is NO modification to the solenoid valve, only the routing of the air.

There is a small "T" connector just before the MPA3 with a cap on it, small hole made in the cap, to use as a vent, thus completing the 3 way air circuit. IF it turns out that the line vents too much air then I'll be drilling the MPA3 at near the maximum travel point to put a vent in it and allow the line to depressurize. No need for QEV as the line easily depressurizes.

[IMG][/IMG]

Here's a closer look at the 'noid/board and the manifold I made to fit over the vent (which now powers the MPA3)

[IMG][/IMG]

and the LOGIC vertical frame which will hold all the good stuff (I won't have the LPR in the frame, will be mounted elsewhere), I've got the frame marked up to show where the slight mods are needed (very slight, seriously), you may not be able to see the marks very well.

[IMG][/IMG]

The nylon bushing was found at ACE Hardware in their nuts and bolts section. The top of the ION 'noid is a "T" gas through, and I've capped one side with a proper air nut from Clippard.

I'll be posting more as the project gets further. The next step is getting the frame mod'd to fit the MPA3 (to trip the sear). Once that is done, then it will be board placement and getting the trigger to switch actuator made.

some guys have thrown out a few names for this.....how about the "iMag Oasis"??

[BigEvil]

Hey Scott,

What are you using in that MPA3 for a ram/piston to hit the mag sear? If you havent come up with anything, I might be able to help you out.

[FinchMan]

were you going to use the eyes? that should be interesting.

[Scott Hudnall]

I have modified the original sear actuating rod and pivot to be used with the MPA3, will post pics when it's completed and the sear rod is adjusted. Yes, it is adjustable so after the MPA3 is in there, I can still fine tune the sear rod length.

How well will my sear rod modification hold up??? I guess only field testing will tell. That's still down the road.

I'm in the midst of slowly modding the LOGIC frame to fit the MPA3 at this time. Got the area roughed in, need to smooth the edges, etc. Using a dremel and small drill. Not as high tech as I would like, but the work will be hidden under the grips anyway.

What did you have in mind BigEvil?

[calcote1]

Hey Scott,

Do you think that would work if you cap off both sides of the " T ".

[FinchMan]

Hey Scott,

Do you think that would work if you cap off both sides of the " T ".

seems like that would work.

I'd like to see just how well the tini hole in the cap is going to work. I take it your using the Reactivity from the automag to return the ram?


and I still don't see why it wouldn't of all just worked with a spring-forward air-back ram.

[calcote1]

The MPA3 itself has a spring inside that should return it to home position, after each shot.

[sgarmy]

i just noticed this thread today i havent been on ao in a while seems like this is going to work


has anyone ever thought of trying to do this with an electronic cocker frame i saw nicad talk about using a 3 way solenoid ( if im correct the front solenoid of an eblade is 3 way ) could the e frame and front solenoid be used to direct the ram you are using with your ion board to activate the sear on the mag if somone can give me some more direction this would be a project im willing to try

a lpr will be used then im stuck what to use to actuate the sear and i have 2 barbs left open on the e solenoid where would these go to

some help would be appreciated guys id like to make this work and i think its possible

[FinchMan]

i just noticed this thread today i havent been on ao in a while seems like this is going to work


has anyone ever thought of trying to do this with an electronic cocker frame i saw nicad talk about using a 3 way solenoid ( if im correct the front solenoid of an eblade is 3 way ) could the e frame and front solenoid be used to direct the ram you are using with your ion board to activate the sear on the mag if somone can give me some more direction this would be a project im willing to try

a lpr will be used then im stuck what to use to actuate the sear and i have 2 barbs left open on the e solenoid where would these go to

some help would be appreciated guys id like to make this work and i think its possible

i think with those two barbs you'd hook it up to a ram (not quiet as long a stroke as a cocker ram, but the same type) to actuate the sear.

[benzy2]

Ok so why would you put a t fitting with a hole in it instead of say a qev? Other than maybe just what you had on hand I would think a qev would be a better bet but maybe not.

[sgarmy]

ok so lets say for instance i take a mag body and rail i take an eblade frame e2, worr blade etc i mount somhow the e2 front solenoid and an lpr lpr will get air to it via the asa then i would run a 3 way hose from the lpr to the solenoid solenoid hoses to a ram similiar to what this guy is useing for the imag using that to trip a sear holefully very small and short i would most likely have to modify the eblade frame because it already has a small solenoid i belive that trips the sear in the autococker to let air into the valve


is what im trying to acomplish here out of reach

or am i better off staying with this guys i mag ideas

also what type of frame could i use i hear the shocker frame also bolts right up i know the autococker frames match perfect so im leaning towards being able to use that

could the small solenoid in the autococker grip frame be adapted to trip the sear in the mag

some helpful direction would be awsome im pretty new to this whole mod it yourself so its one of a kind but im starting to think this will work someone smarter corect me if im wrong

[FinchMan]

ok so lets say for instance i take a mag body and rail i take an eblade frame e2, worr blade etc i mount somhow the e2 front solenoid and an lpr lpr will get air to it via the asa then i would run a 3 way hose from the lpr to the solenoid solenoid hoses to a ram similiar to what this guy is useing for the imag using that to trip a sear holefully very small and short i would most likely have to modify the eblade frame because it already has a small solenoid i belive that trips the sear in the autococker to let air into the valve


is what im trying to acomplish here out of reach

or am i better off staying with this guys i mag ideas

also what type of frame could i use i hear the shocker frame also bolts right up i know the autococker frames match perfect so im leaning towards being able to use that

could the small solenoid in the autococker grip frame be adapted to trip the sear in the mag

some helpful direction would be awsome im pretty new to this whole mod it yourself so its one of a kind but im starting to think this will work someone smarter corect me if im wrong

I'd hafta suggest the spydermag mod to ya. You just modify a few things on an electro spyder grip frame, and drill new holes, then it bolts right on and it works fine with the ULT.

that would be pretty much the same thing as if you were to try to set up the noid in the cocker grip frame to actuate the sear.


To use the pneumatic noid, you would run a hose from the LPR (thats tapped into the VA) to the noid, then you would run the two hoses from the noid to a ram like this one. the ram would then be hooked up to the sear somehow.

Hopefully there would be room in the grip for something like that, but i don't know if there would be.

soo... yeah, i suggest a spydermag for ya, if you don't want to try something too crazy.

[sgarmy]

room in the grip frame for the ram probably not room in the rail possibly

i see that the ram has an optional part called a clevis this could be used to move the sear

do you know bow big that ram would be

and i would do the spydermag mod if it wasnt so cheesy and shotty looking


if all is lost ill do a hyperframe with a predator board and eyes

if this idea is shot i will most likely go with the mod you see before you the imag

so if somone could anwser my question of what a logical frame to use would be besides a logic it would be nice

[Scott Hudnall]

The MPA3 is a spring return. and the spring return is easily capable of cycling fast enough to keep up with the ramping mode.

Regarding the above question about QEV vs the air vent (red cap in air line of pic), I've got a QEV, might use it in the completed circuit, but the air vent certainly does vent fast enough to allow the MPA3 to cycle, even in ramping mode. I've not tried the QEV in the circuit yet. But one thing is for sure, as nicad pointed out, that without venting (or having a 3 way circuit), the MPA3 will not return....the air pressure will keep it pushed forward.

Everything is still in progress. And is progressing nicely. I'm stll working on fitting the MPA3 perfectly, just taking some patient dremel work. Also, I've mod'd the sear actuating rod, will post pics of that when it's all completed.

As I'm sure nicad would attest, when undertaking a new project like this, it just takes time to work out the little technical details. Look how long it took us to figure out the air flow on the ion solenoid to work with the MPA3, to operate as 3way normally closed rather than the ION air path of 3way normally open.

As you can see, there are 2 different and proven mods to the ION solenoid that allows it to operate the MPA3.

Regarding the question about capping both sides of the "T" at the top of the solenoid housing, I'm using the air flow down the middle of that fitting to return the plunger in the solenoid. Is it absolutely necessary? I don't know for sure, but it can't hurt at all, and gives the plunger positive force to seal against it's seat/seal in the solenoid housing. The air pressure behind the plunger (inside the solenoid housing) holds it sealed from that point.

This is a pretty cool thing. I'm taking my time to get it right...rather than rush through it and hack everything up and have a pile of unusable parts.

I'm also looking ahead to the debate of whether it will look better with a ULE body or a black PF body. I'm undecided at this point....guess it just depends on my preference at the time.

here's to the iMag